Posh Dog Knee Brace
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What can I be doing along with bracing to help my dog recover?

Hey guys, Nikki with posh dog knee braces here.  So, first of all I can’t stress enough the need to do some form of physical therapy.  We send every patient home with a 12 week recovery calendar and exercises, however, we need you to keep those up for the full 9 months.  Whether you find a holistic or physical therapy clinic to help you with water treadmill or PT, you need to keep you dog active in some way. 

Lack of activity will cause a joint to “lock up” after the scar tissue has formed, meaning there is not going to be the same amount of range of motion there.  There also can be loss of muscle.  The brace alone is not enough to build muscle, you will need to keep walking your dog, and doing some form of exercise program.  This is needed whether you do surgery, Conservative management, or bracing.  Doing nothing will result in loss of muscle, loss of range of motion, and most likely arthritis and pain down the road.

We have a lovely list of holistic veterinarians and rehab clinics around the US and in Canada, so reach out if you are struggling to find a clinic.  The clinics on our list are partners with posh, and know how to treat our patients, as well as measure and fit the brace if needed.  We do have some things we can have you do from home as well, if PT is just not in the budget.  I am happy with walks, simple exercises, and passive range of motion.

What is PROM?  This is you gently bending and flexing the knee, as well as the hip.  I have videos we send to you on how to do this stretching, but this is key to keep flexibility in the joint, and not end up with lack of movement there.

Please let us know if you have any questions, poshdogkneebrace.com or visit our Facebook Page.  Thanks!

Vitamin E Is Beneficial for Dogs – #1 Great Read

Although vitamin E is beneficial and secure for dogs, not all canines require it. But, dogs taking fish oil may benefit from taking a vitamin E supplement.

Although knowledge about vitamin E dosages may leave you dizzy, vitamin E is healthy for dogs. The recommended vitamin E dosages for dogs seem to vary widely. Even worse, dosages may be indicated in milligrams or international units (IUs) (mgs).

The fact that there are two main types of vitamin E—natural and synthetic—with varying potencies and, consequently, various vitamin E dosages, just adds to the confusion. Although there is a lot to take in, we have the information you require regarding vitamin E supplements for dogs.

Vitamin E Is Beneficial for Dogs

Vitamin E: What Is It?

Since vitamin E is an antioxidant, it aids in defending the body’s cell membranes. It contributes to fat metabolism, strengthens immunity, and increases fertility. Your dog’s skin, hair, muscles, and vision will all benefit from it.

Although canines can safely consume vitamin E, not all dogs require a supplement. Canine vitamin E insufficiency is uncommon because most dogs consume plenty of it in a balanced diet. If you’re worried, your veterinarian can order blood tests to determine whether your dog actually has a deficiency.

Vitamin E insufficiency symptoms include:

  • Vision issues
  • Uncomfortable body fat inflammation (steatitis)
  • Muscular soreness or weakness
  • Neurological abnormalities

Topical Vitamin E

It’s okay to apply topical vitamin E oil to dogs. Alpha tocopherol and an oil, like virgin olive oil, should be listed under ingredients. It can be used to paw pads, dry cracked nostrils, and irritated or crusty skin regions.

Fish Oil and Vitamin E

Vitamin E may be advantageous for dogs using fish oil. The beneficial polyunsaturated fatty acids in fish oil for your dog can eventually deplete the body’s vitamin E reserves. The tiny quantity of vitamin E found in fish oil supplements mostly serves as a preservative and is typically present in proportions that are too low to raise your dog’s levels. For dogs getting fish oil, the most typical guideline for vitamin E supplementation is 400 IU of vitamin E for every 1,000 mg of fish oil.

Dogs’ Vitamin E Dosages

You must first identify the type of vitamin E present in the bottle you bought in order to estimate the recommended dosage for your dog:

Vitamin E occurs naturally as d-alpha tocopherol (d-).

  • dL-alpha tocopherol is the name for vitamin E that has been synthesized (dL-).
  • The ideal form to employ is the natural form because it has a lot more power than the synthetic form.

You’ll then need to perform some math. Keep in mind: 2 mg of synthetic vitamin E (dL-) are equivalent to 1 mg of natural vitamin E (d-).

You may also need to convert IU to mg or mg to IU, which isn’t difficult:

  • For natural (d-) vitamin E:
    • IU x 0.67 = mg
    • mg x 1.5 = IU
  • For synthetic (dL-) vitamin E:
    • IU x 0.45 = mg
    • mg x 2.22 = IU

So, using these formulas, here are examples:

  • 200 IU d-alpha tocopherol (natural vitamin E) = 134.5 mg of vitamin E
  • 200 IU dL-alpha tocopherol (synthetic vitamin E) = 90 mg of vitamin E

Of course, aside from the fish oil indicated above, that still leaves open the question of how much vitamin E to give your dog. As a result, we list a few issues in our chart below, along with suggested dosages, that your dog may benefit from vitamin E supplementation for.

Please note that while all of these dosage suggestions are off-label, they were all drawn from renowned veterinary medicine formularies. Never administer a supplement of any kind to your dog without first consulting your veterinarian.

Overdoses of Vitamin E

In dogs, vitamin E is mostly harmless; overdose problems are uncommon. Accidental acute overdose typically causes gastrointestinal distress, including vomiting and diarrhea. Persistent overload may result in problems with the other fat-soluble vitamins’ absorption (A, D, and K). When fed too much vitamin E, dogs with low vitamin K levels may experience excessive bleeding due to coagulation issues.

For more information about Vitamins contact us via our contact page or visit our Facebook page.

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Cranial Cruciate Ligament Repair for Dogs:  4 Options

Hey guys, this is Nikki Lead Veterinary Technician with Posh Dog Knee Braces.  Today, let’s talk about Cranial Cruciate Ligament Repair (CCL/ACL) tears in a dog, and what your options are.  First of all, if your dog is limping on the hind leg, be sure to get a diagnosis from your veterinarian before making any decisions.  Once that takes place, be firm with your Veterinarian if needed and ask for the exact diagnosis.  If they feel that your dog has a Cranial Cruciate Ligament tear, or CCL tear, then you do have some decisions to make moving forward.  Let’s go into the options, and the pros and cons, as well as long term expectations.

First off, depending on your veterinarian, they may refer you to a specialist to verify the diagnosis.  This is completely up to you, but do know that if you go to a specialist, they are typically surgeons, and will not be happy without scheduling your dog for surgery.  Please know that you can say no.  I can’t stress enough how important it is for you to take a breath, and go over all options before signing that dotted line. 

Cranial Cruciate Ligament Repair for Dogs

Cranial Cruciate Ligament Repair for Dogs Option 1: 

Choosing to do just conservative management, with no support or surgery.  This seems to be gaining momentum and popularity, because obviously options can cost money.  There are supportive things to do, such as keeping your dog in a kennel, leash walks outside, supplements, acupuncture, laser, prp, ect.  While this option is better for the budget, it is not for the busy owner, or owners with small children and other pets.  While it sounds great, reality is that there is a great chance your pup will continue to re-injure their knee.  At some point, the door will open, and your dog will want to run. 

Someone will forget, your dog looks like he is dong better at 3 months, and in he comes with the leg hiked all the way up to the groin.  Sound familiar?  This can be a tough cycle, and the bones in the knee are still able to move, causing pressure on the meniscus as well increasing your dog’s chance of arthritis down the road.  So, can a knee heal with conservative management alone?  Possibly, but there could be long term issues if you do not do passive range of motion, PT, and exercising along with CM alone.

Cranial Cruciate Ligament Repair for Dogs Option 2: 

This is by far my favorite option, from years of experience working with orthopedics.  Using an orthotic Brace in conjunction with PROM and PT, as well as supplements and support.  Now I am not talking about the cheap over the counter neoprene braces that have a spiderweb of straps connecting to the harness or back, those are no better than just letting the knee recover alone. 

I am talking about a custom made premium orthotic brace, such as the Posh Dog Knee Brace.  Posh Brace fully stabilizes the knee, allowing for range of motion and squatting, while also acting as a shock absorber for the meniscus.  This is going to help give a smoother recovery, and allow that scar tissue to form without a lot of re-injuries.  Thus, this is one of the safer options, and definitely still less than surgery.

Cranial Cruciate Ligament Repair for Dogs Option 3:

Tightrope, lateral suture, or extracapsular repair.  This is the cheapest of the surgical options, and should only be used on patients under 30-40lbs, as the suture has double the chance of failing in larger breed patients.  This method usually is in the $2k-$3k ballpark range now, and is literally using fishing line/or suture to wrap around the knee joint to keep things in place.  There are several ways this can and usually does fail.  The crimps can come off, the suture can break, the suture can slip, ect. 

These patients are immobile for months, and do get a lot of atrophy in the joint.  This seems to be sore to recover from, and without a brace post op, your dog is going to need to be kenneled for weeks to months, to allow for scar tissue to properly form.  This technique is similar to if you braced, however, without the full stabilization and support, and double the cost.

Cranial Cruciate Ligament Repair for Dogs Option 4:

 TPLO or TTA surgery.  Both of these will be suggested by your vet or surgeon, usually first.  They both entail cutting of the tibia bone, and re-alignment using a plate and screws.  This is permanent, and there is no going back if something doesn’t go the way it was meant to.  I always save this for my last option, as it is extremely invasive, expensive, and does not give a guarantee of working.  Too many patients have had lifelong lameness due to choosing this option, and are not able to recover fully. 

There are many weeks needed for kenneling, so the leg will atrophy.  This also causes overcompensating on the good knee, which again increases the chances of another CCL tear in that leg.  If surgery does go well, and you are able to do a full Physical Therapy Program post op with a professional, your dog may have a good outcome, but this is not without risk.

Please email me at poshintake1@gmail.com if you would like to ask more questions about Cranial Cruciate Ligament Repair, CCL/ACL tears in dogs, and what the best options are for your pup.  You can also contact via our forms or visit our Facebook page.

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4 Tips on How to Exercise your Dog Using Our Brace

How to exercise your dog using our brace. Hey guys, this is Nikki Lead Veterinary Technician with Posh Dog Knee Braces,we are going to talk about excerises for your dog.  Today let’s talk about how to keep your injured dog active using our brace and how to exercise with it.  As you know, after surgery there is several weeks that you would need to have your dog kenneled with no exercising, leading to atrophy of the muscles and overcompensating on the other joints.  With our brace, patients are able to fully weight bear and start walks right away, decreasing the chances for overcompensating. 

exercise your dog

Tips to Exercise your dog

Just like us, we want to start out slowly, so as not to over-use those muscles that have been unused since the onset of the injury.  I suggest starting out with no more than 2 fifteen minute walks per day for excerising, and gradually increasing the amount of walking each week by about 10-15 minutes, as the patient starts getting stronger.  Each patient is different in the amount you are able to start walks, and there may be some initial soreness for the first 2 weeks.  This will go away as we start gaining muscle back.

Once our patients are able to walk comfortably for at least 20-30 minutes, after a few weeks, we can start encouraging things like swimming, hills, beach walking, and curbwork for exercises.  Swimming can be at a physical therapy clinic, swimming pool, or a beach.  Just no jumping into the water and climbing yet.  Short hills and small hikes are great tools to keep those muscles working out.

We do offer a 12 week physical therapy program with each of our patients, which includes stretches and different exercises, such as figure 8’s, curb work, walks, hydrotherapy, ect.  It is important to keep up with passive range of motion as you work into more activities, to prevent soreness and stiffness in the muscles and joints.  As we are developing scar tissue, we want to keep up with gentle movements in the knee.  This is important to help the development of healthy scar tissues.

After a few months, gentle trots and increased activities will be ok, as long as the patient is supervised.  As we start to approach the 6-9 month mark, there should be more and more stability to the joint, even without the brace on.  As the knee begins to stabilize, we can do more and more activities.  We still need to refrain from excessive running, jumping, twisting, or playing fetch until things are fully recovered.  This is usually after about 12 months.  Always ask our technicians if you have any questions on activities planned. 

For more information about how to exercise your dog you can contact through our contact form or visit or Facebook Page.

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12 Signs Your Dog Is in Pain, and What You Can Do to Help

Signs your dog is in pain. The idea is to be aware of your dog’s typical movement and react swiftly to any abnormalities.

Mental alarms may be triggered by your energetic dog limping or moving in an unnatural manner. A sprain, perhaps? A strained muscle perhaps a strained ligament or tendon what should you do in response to this?

You should first determine whether the aberration is a short-term or long-term symptom.

An acute injury is one that manifests abruptly, typically 24 to 48 hours after the initial trauma. Sprains, falls, accidents, and other impacts can cause acute injuries, which are characterized by sharp, immediate pain, soreness, redness, swelling, warm-to-the-touch skin, and inflammation.

In contrast, chronic injuries take longer to manifest, get better and worse, and result in persistent soreness or dull pain. Overuse, arthritis, and acute injuries that were never appropriately treated are the typical causes of chronic injuries.

dog pain

DOG PAIN Symptoms

Sometimes a dog’s injury is visible because they are limping, howling in pain, or are unable to move. But paying attention to your dog’s movement and demeanor is time well spent because spotting mild indications can help prevent more serious issues. These are some examples of pain and stress signals:

How to Spot a Dog in Pain:

  • Staying away from other dogs (play can cause pain).
  • Sleeping more or less than normal, or spending less or more time with family.
  • Growling or snapping for no apparent reason.
  • Avoiding commonplace actions like getting into a car, going up and down stairs, and leaping onto a bed or sofa.
  • Sudden onset of hyperactivity, inability to relax peacefully, profuse panting, pacing, or gnawing on a bodily part.
  • Missing training cues, attempting to flee, distractedly sniffing the ground, shutting down and remaining still, providing behaviors other than those requested, or displaying appeasement behaviors like licking, squatting, pawing, rolling over, yawning, or looking away.

Physical Symptoms of Pain in Dogs

  • Rejecting treats or meals.
  • Vomiting or more frequent urination
  • Not sitting up straight.
  • Having hot spots or other changes to your skin or coat.
  • Exhibiting additional abnormalities in gait or posture, favoring one leg or one side of the body, or appearing stiff and sore.
  • The affected area is hot. (Slowly examine the dog’s body for any temperature changes with your hand.)

The majority of canine injuries are chronic rather than acute. Chronic injuries are caused by overuse, excessive motion, and wear and tear. Every dog is susceptible to injuries, but some are more vulnerable than others, such as dogs that are overweight, weekend athletes, couch potatoes, elderly dogs, dogs with arthritis, dogs used in search and rescue, and canine athletics (such as dogs competing in fly ball, agility, freestyle, disc dog, hunting, field work, dock diving, obedience, weight pulling, dog sledding, and other active sports).

How to Care for a Painful Dog

Rest is the number one suggestion for canine wounds. In particular, if the damage involves ligaments or tendons, which lack a blood supply that provides healing nutrients to the injury site, both visible injuries and subtle micro tears require time to heal. As soon as even little symptoms appear, it’s crucial to cease trekking, running, playing, or competing.

Check your dog’s nails, paw pads, and fur if he becomes abruptly lame, bleeds, or compulsively licks a paw, advises Dr. Davis. It’s common to see grass awns embedded in the skin between the toes. The pads are frequently affected by cuts, stingers, or foreign objects and a ripped nail can be painful.

If the injury is serious, take your dog right away to the vet; however, if it’s only minor or a visit to the clinic isn’t feasible, take your dog home and confine him to a quiet place. Write down any changes you observe, beginning with the day and hour you first noticed the issue and a description of what your dog was doing at the time. Your veterinarian or other therapist will be able to recognize and treat the injury with the aid of an accurate history of symptoms and treatments.

Range-of-motion exercises, such coaxing your dog with a food or toy into a turn to the right or left or raising and lowering his head, can help you record symptoms. Additionally, daily massage and tender touch reveal hints. When you pet or press your dog’s shoulder or hindquarters, does she turn away? Is there somewhere on your body that seems especially heated, hard, stiff, sensitive, or swollen? One of the quickest methods to find inflammation, muscle strains, and other discomforts is through touch.

Rest, ice, and massage are effective treatments for many minor and severe muscle, tendon, and ligament injuries.  “Going outside on a leash to relieve itself counts as resting your pet; walks, treks, running, jumping, climbing stairs, or playing with other animals do not. Visit your veterinarian for a precise diagnosis if, after a few days, your pet has not improved, does not get better, or continues to display the same symptoms.


For severe injuries, cold is advised since it lessens discomfort and swelling. Dogs who are hurt instinctively look for places to stand or lie down, such as puddles, ponds, streams, and snow banks.

It is untrue for a bag of frozen peas to work as an efficient ice pack. The peas don’t remain cold for long enough to be useful. Pet supply shops have cold therapy items for animals, while businesses that sell medical supplies also sell cold packs for sports injuries. The finest cold packs have a gel inside that doesn’t harden when frozen, allowing you to shape them to a dog’s body.

Make your own cold packs by combining two cups of water, one and a half cups of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, and two tablespoons of salt in a self-sealing plastic bag. Double-bag the bag to ensure a tight closure.

Any open ice pack should be covered with a towel before application, removed after 10 to 15 minutes, and left off for at least two hours before reapplying because cold limits circulation and ice left on for too long might result in difficulties. Never use cold treatments right before working out, practicing, or competing.

Put two cups of uncooked rice in a sock, tie the top, and microwave for one minute to create your own warm pack. It will continue to be warm for 20 minutes. For additional relaxation, add a sprig of lavender or a drop of essential oil. The sock can be utilized repeatedly. If you don’t have a microwave, put the raw rice in a cookie sheet and preheat the oven to 150°F for 5 to 7 minutes.

Then, pour the warm rice into a sock or pouch, make sure it’s a safe temperature before applying, and check to make sure it’s still warm enough. As an alternative, soak a towel in warm water, wring it out thoroughly, and apply to the affected region. As required, reheat.

Whenever utilizing a warm pack, never leave a dog alone. To ensure the optimum temperature, always place a towel between the pack and your skin.

The fundamentals of massage are simple to master, and the majority of dogs like to be touched, stretched, and caressed. Restoring range of motion, calming the patient, and repairing injured tissue are all benefits of massage therapy. Hire a professional dog massage therapist, or study the foundations in books or on videos.

Chiropractic adjustments restore proper joint and vertebral alignment to alleviate pain, lessen muscular spasms, enhance coordination, and improve general health.

Musculoskeletal issues like arthritis, disc diseases, stiffness, and lameness can be improved or treated by acupuncture. It’s near relative, acupressure, involves pressing on acupressure points without using needles. Gent finger pressure or small, counterclockwise or clockwise-moving circles can be used to accomplish this.

Veterinarians and canine rehabilitation therapists provide a range of treatments for wounds, including hydrotherapy, shock wave therapy, therapeutic exercise, therapeutic ultrasound, therapeutic laser, PEMF therapy, cryo therapy, orthotics and braces, electrical stimulation, herbal remedies, and energy healing modalities like Reiki.

Without first visiting your veterinarian, avoid giving your dog any over-the-counter medications. Numerous human drugs “may not be taken by your pet” or “may produce undesirable reactions with your dog’s other meds.”

Even if your dog appears to be in good health and reacts well to pain medication, follow your vet’s advice to rest and only engage in light exercise while the injury heals.


Helping your dog avoid damage by taking precautions takes time and effort, but it’s time well spent.

Preventing obesity is a crucial objective. Carrying too much weight puts too much strain on the muscles, tendons, and ligaments. “Obesity is also an inflammatory condition. Degenerative joint disease and a variety of other problems throughout the body can be brought on by chronic inflammation. Reduce the amount of treats your overweight dog receives during training and forbid family members from giving her more. It takes a village to lose weight successfully in dogs.

Similar to humans, pets benefit from having a strong core to lessen stress on the spine and limbs. Regular conditioning should be a lifelong objective for your dog. Your dog need not be an athlete to train like one. There are several online athletic and conditioning communities, and your neighborhood kennel club might know of them.

Avoiding repeatedly doing the same movements is another protective measure. Tennis ball throwing may be your dog’s favorite exercise, but repetitive ball throwing can lead to injuries, so mix it up with other hobbies.

Keep toenails short because overgrown toenails alter the biomechanics of the toes, which affects the alignment and mobility of the legs and spine.

Be practical while planning your dog’s schedule. Sprains and strains are brought on by abruptly changing from couch potato to canine athlete. For ambitious games of fetch, trail runs, and other “too much fun” occasions, inactive dogs require time and progressively increasing activity. And if your dog is hurt, have patience. Keep in mind that one of your dogs strongest heals is time.

If your dog is in need of a knee brace or elbow brace due to injury you can order your brace today via our shopping page, if you have any further questions  about what you should do you can contact us via our contact form, or visit our Facebook page or Group page for more information.

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How to socialize your pet with others – 3 Ways

You must socialize your dog with people if you want him to be hospitable to both friends and family. Here are some pointers for socializing your dog with others.

Congratulations! You’ve just added a new dog or puppy to your home, and both he and you are adjusting to life together rapidly. It’s possible that you didn’t consider how much or even how to socialize your new dog or puppy when you were adopting them. You must introduce your dog to new people if you want him to be hospitable to both friends and relatives.


Introducing your Dog in your Relationship

A major deal—for everyone—is introducing your significant other to the family. It’s quite different when you socialize your dog to your significant other. Regardless of how hostile your family may be against a new spouse, at least they won’t bite, right?

It’s been “the two of you” when you share your life with your dog prior to welcoming a new person. Your dog will be used to being the “top dog,” so when you bring home a significant other, he can feel displaced and not be happy about it.

You can do the following things to make the introductions go more smoothly:

  • Give a piece of clothing that your significant other has worn to your dog. Allow your dog to sniff the clothes so that it can become accustomed to there fragrance. Say your partner’s name as you allow your dog to sniff it. Your dog will then link the smell to the name or sound. Give your dog a treat or engage in one of his favorite games as a reward after allowing him to sniff the item. Positive emotions will result from connecting the aroma to a treat: This scent = treat.
  • Introduce them in person for the first time at a neutral location. Your spouse will be entering your dog’s territory if you bring them inside your house or even just your yard, which may cause your dog to become uncomfortable or defensive.
  • Allow your dog to sniff your partner while holding a piece of their clothing and saying their name. Your dog will connect the name, the person, and the outfit. Offer your dog a little goodie as your partner calmly and soothingly calls the dog’s name. Then give your dog a reward and have your spouse pet him. Continue doing this until your dog appears at ease.
  • You should keep your distance while these exchanges are taking place. When everyone appears at ease, approach and start chatting. Prior to moving the visits to your home, keep the next several encounters in a neutral location. Start by having your partner meet your dog in the yard, then in the driveway, then inside the home (not at the front door), and presto, he or she is in and everything is going well!

Socialize your Dog to Visitors

There’s a good possibility you won’t have time to set up these “neutral ground” conversations if you’re throwing a party or hosting houseguests. Your visitors should be aware that they are entering your dog’s domain and that it can take the dog some time to get used to them. These folks are strangers to your dog, so you should introduce them to him the same way you would any stranger. These first socialize interaction must be watched over and conducted as calmly as possible.

You can introduce your dog to home guests in the following ways:

You must maintain command of the circumstance. Keep your dog on a leash if you know he will become aggressive against outsiders who invade his domain or if you are unsure of his reaction. Allow visitors to enter, and once they are inside, let your dog start the introduction.

Allow your dog to greet your guests while keeping him on a short leash. Allow your guests to give him a tiny present if you are confident that he will accept it well. This serves to further solidify the association between stranger and treatment. Give your dog a treat when he behaves well and is calm.

Use the commands “sit,” “down,” or “stay” if your dog has been taught them when guests arrive at your home.

You should greet visitors first so that your dog can observe your interactions. Your dog will detect the pleasant interaction, will notice that you’re relaxed, and that might encourage him to relax, whether you shake their hands or embrace them.

Inform your visitors if your dog jumps. Inform your visitors that if your dog jumps on them, they should turn their backs to the dog and place their arms across their chests. Ask them to refrain from addressing your dog by name or even from saying “down.” The fact that they are turning away will deter the dog from jumping because he is not being petted and is being ignored.

You could choose to let your dog off his leash once the visitors have entered your home and he seems at ease with them being there. Keep an eye on his level of tension and provide your visitors with advice on how to speak with him.

Interactions Between Dogs and Children Should Be Watched

Extreme caution must be used whenever children are present, whether you are bringing a new baby home, hosting visitors with children, or running into kids on the street.

Children squeal, run around, and sometimes yank the dog’s fur or unintentionally step on its paws or tail. A youngster running around may in some cases and with some breeds trigger the dog’s predatory instinct, which can have catastrophic results. Avoid interacting with dogs you don’t know too much. If you have children and are adopting a dog for your family, do your research to make sure the dog is “kid friendly.”

Here are some pointers to socialize your dog to kids in a secure way:

  • Install a baby gate and let the child and dog play together while remaining safe behind the gate. Encourage the child to simply let the dog sniff him and become used to him rather than sticking his fingers through the gate.
  • Remove the gate if the dog or puppy seems at ease around the child and has calmed down. However, gather your dog’s preferred blankets and toys first. When a youngster approaches his preferred possessions, whether they are a child of the same height or size, your dog may become possessive of those objects. Even a dog that isn’t typically territorial might start to feel uneasy around this tiny stranger.
  • Always keep an eye on any encounters between a puppy, dog, and child. Not enough can be said about this! Never, ever leave a new baby alone with the dog if you just brought one home. When a child begins to wail or wriggle her little arms and legs, even the calmest dog may become afraid.
  • Allow him to assist with feeding time and walking the dog, depending on the child’s age (he doesn’t have to hold the leash). This proves to your dog that the little person is a member of the pack.
  • Teach kids to respect the dog’s territory. Your child should respect your dog’s desire for alone time and leave him to sleep undisturbed if your dog has a crate or bed that he retreats to when he’s exhausted.
  • Children must be taught to pet dogs gently and not to pull on their fur, hair, or ears.
  • Teaching a child not to approach a dog and attempt to hug or kiss it is among the most crucial lessons. Hugging a dog can be uncomfortable for many. When a child puts his face in a dog’s face, the dog may become scared and bite the child.
  • If your child is old enough, she can assist with training your dog or puppy using positive reinforcement. Bring your kid along so she can work with the dog while you attend the training sessions. It’s a wonderful opportunity for them to connect.

You, the pet parent, must pay attention to your dog and his body language if you want to foster positive connections between your dog or puppy and visitors to your home, people you meet on the street, or if you’re bringing home a new, little human. When he feels at ease, move cautiously. When your dog shows signs of anxiety, you should go more slowly or remove him from the environment and try again later.

Dogs strive to win over their owners. They might take some time to warm up to a stranger, but with time and encouragement, your dog and the people in your life will develop a close friendship that will last a lifetime.

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It’s time to focus once more on the chocolate in your home with Valentine’s Day quickly approaching. After all, it’s customary to receive chocolate during this time of year that you would not often have on hand, and this can easily turn into an alluring treat for your family’s pets.

It’s crucial to keep in mind, though, how poisonous chocolate may be for dogs. Although chocolate toxicity in dogs or cats may not always result in death, it can be extremely harmful and may also result in long-term health issues.

To learn more about what to watch out for this Valentine’s Day and whenever you have chocolate in your house, read the information below.



Chocolate is toxic to dogs for two reasons:


The first of these is that chocolate contains caffeine. While certain varieties of chocolate have more caffeine than others, all varieties of chocolate do. Caffeine can make your dog’s heart beat too quickly, which could have major negative health effects. The same logic applies to the argument against allowing dogs to consume coffee.


Theobromine is another component of chocolate that can be poisonous to dogs. This substance can act as a diuretic and behaves similarly to caffeine. Your dog may quickly get dehydrated as a result of this, which could cause other issues.

It’s crucial to keep in mind that a chocolate’s toxicity increases with how bitter it tastes. This indicates that white chocolate is less likely to be harmful than dark baking chocolate, which is particularly poisonous. Do not give your dog any chocolate, even if you believe it is not too bitter, as all varieties of chocolate can be toxic and hazardous to dogs and other pets.


Now that you are aware of the reasons why chocolate is harmful to dogs, it is critical to know how to spot the signs of chocolate poisoning in your pet.

Intoxication symptoms in dogs from chocolate include:


The two issues listed above are the first indications that dogs are poisonous to chocolate. In minor situations, dogs may merely vomit or have a few episodes of diarrhea before feeling better.

However, in extreme circumstances, these symptoms may worsen and eventually lead to the other conditions on the list below.


Dogs who have consumed too much theobromine or caffeine may exhibit increased thirst and urine. This is because theobromine and caffeine are both diuretics.


Particularly caffeine may make dogs act agitatedly. Even without the dog consuming much of it, darker chocolates with higher caffeine concentrations may cause this symptom.


A worrisome sign that might cause cardiac arrest is an increased heart rate, especially in older or sicker dogs. It may be advised to take your pet to the emergency vet for monitoring and/or treatment since it can be challenging to monitor your pet’s heart rate at home.


One of the worst signs of dog’s excessive chocolate poisoning is seizures. This may only happen if a dog consumes a significant amount of chocolate, but it occasionally indicates that the toxicity will become fatal without veterinary care.

If your dog exhibits this symptom after consuming chocolate, take him to the clinic right away.


Depending on the signs your dog exhibits after consuming chocolate, you may need to take different actions.


If you are aware that your pet has had chocolate, call the emergency veterinarian as soon as possible. Depending on the type of chocolate consumed and the size of your pet, clinical symptoms and issues can differ greatly. Your pet may occasionally be made to vomit the chocolate up by the vet in an effort to prevent or decrease the possibility of developing clinical symptoms.

Do not wait for symptoms to appear before contacting your veterinarian; once symptoms appear, treatment becomes much more challenging.


Please take your pet to the emergency vet if he exhibits any of the signs on this list and you are certain that he has consumed chocolate. Dehydration can occur quickly as a result of excessive thirst and urine, which can be very dangerous for dogs.

The more quickly you react to your dog’s alarming symptoms, the more probable it is that your dog will be able to fully recover from the situation.


There are numerous ways to protect your dog at home and avoid chocolate toxicity:


If you keep chocolate of any kind in your home, you should always be aware of how you’re storing it and how probable it is that you’re pet will try to get to it. Whether you have brownies, cookies, milk chocolate bars, or cocoa powder in your kitchen or pantry, they should always be kept in a secure location that your pet can’t access.

Avoid leaving chocolate goodies or wrappers lying around by keeping cabinets and pantry doors closed whenever you can.


Additionally, it’s crucial to teach your pet the “leave it” command to stop them from grabbing objects—either food or inedible—that they shouldn’t. Early training of your dog in good manners and obedience can prevent a lot of hassle later on for both you and them.


Children are renowned for giving pets gifts. Get kids in the habit of putting things away in their right places and teach them not to offer your dog any chocolate or other goodies.

Make sure kids develop the habit of immediately closing the fridge, cupboards, and drawers after usage.


Cocoa shell mulch is a rare but potentially harmful source of chocolate poisoning in dogs. The mulch, which is frequently used as a top covering for plants, can entice dogs with its sweet perfume, causing them to consume some of the mulch, which can lead to disease.

Cocoa shell mulch should never be used for landscaping.


With the use of this knowledge, you ought to be able to protect your dogs at Valentine’s Day and any other time of the year when there is chocolate present. Keep any domestic pets under close observation and store chocolate securely out of their reach. You can avoid this potentially deadly issue altogether if you take this action. Call an emergency veterinarian straight once if you know or suspect that your dog has consumed chocolate.

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Can You Dig It (Not!)? How to Handle a Dog Who Digs in a Place You Don’t Want Him To – MUST READ

Give your dog a designated digging area and restrict him unsupervised access to the areas where you don’t want holes to be dug if you want to completely stop undesired digging.

Digging is among many dogs’ favorite pastimes when it comes to their natural behavior. Digging is frequently discouraged for dogs who live with people, which is unfortunate.

There are many reasons why dogs dig holes in the ground:

  • To discover the surroundings
  • To alleviate stress or boredom
  • To leave a confined space
  • In search of creatures that live on the earth, to make a cool place to rest.
  • It’s fun!

Stop your dog from digging before it starts.

Avoiding digging entirely is the best solution. Until you’re sure your doggy can amuse himself without digging, don’t leave him outside unattended. Look around your yard to find the best sites for digging, such as gopher mounds, regions with loose ground, or damp areas that are conducive to digging. Of course, some dogs may dig wherever they feel like it, but removing the temptation makes it simpler to focus your dog’s attention on better habits.

If you must leave your digging doggy alone in the yard, use management to help stop practice sessions for the undesirable activity. If your dog likes to dig, you might want to consider a secure enclosure like a dog run or utilize a reliable exercise pen that is set up to prevent access to certain places. Just while she is learning, though; it won’t last forever!

Giving your dog enrichment

It’s a good idea to assess your dog’s overall enrichment honestly. Does your dog go for daily walks outside of the house and/or yard? Is the path always the same? Do you vary your routine by doing some exercise while you walk? Does your dog ever accompany you on errands to new (dog-friendly) locations if he is comfortable in public? Dogs frequently dig when they’re bored. Ask him honestly what else he has planned for the week to see if you can shake things up a bit.

How to stop a dog from consistently digging holes

If your dog has a history of digging up stuff, try some of the following:

Create a digging pit by filling a plastic wading pool or a child’s sandbox with sand or dirt. Compared to dirt, sand leaves less of a mess. bury the toys your dog enjoys most. Show him the reward pit and assist him in finding it with excitement. Don’t forget to replace the toys buried within the pit and continue assisting him in finding the treasures. The “hides” may get smaller and more difficult to spot as he improves.

Digging holes at random? Try replacing the majority of the dirt in the hole, adding some of your dog’s waste on top, then covering it with the remaining earth. Digging for fun and discovering waste can be very unpleasant for some dogs. As your dog tries out new digging techniques, you’ll probably need to repeat this process a few times, but for many dogs, the regular experience of uncovering waste will cause them to reevaluate their backyard behavior, especially when combined with your efforts to give them more enjoyable activities.

You find it difficult to poop in your dog’s favorite holes. Use the same method, except instead of excrement, use a piece of chicken wire that has been cut to fit the hole’s surface area.

How to handle a dog that digs under the fence

We advise creating a trough along the fence for fence diggers, then filling it with massive, upright stone pavers. Another option is to bury an 18-inch-tall chicken wire trip about a foot beneath the bottom of a wooden fence.

Most crucial, keep in mind that behavior doesn’t alter suddenly. It may take up to a few months of consistency before you notice a noticeable difference in your dog’s digging, so you’ll need to be consistent in your efforts to lessen it using a combination of teaching and management. Avoid digging yourself a deeper hole by giving up too soon!

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Happy Tail Disorder – MUST READ!

When dogs wag their tails and strike objects with them repeatedly, they commonly suffer from this dog tail injury.

Nobody is thrilled if your dog develops what is known as “happy tail syndrome,” though. Dog tail injuries are common, especially in cheerful dogs, but they are challenging to treat.

happy tail disorder

Happy Tail Syndrome

Dogs with long, slender tails that wag vigorously and traumatize the tip of their tail when it strikes a hard surface are said to have “happy tail syndrome.” Every time they bang the tail, they cause more harm to the skin there. It also bleeds. A lot. While the dog is at rest, it might create a clot or scab, but as soon as the dog is up and wagging—or strikes something—the scab falls off, the wound cracks open, and the bleeding resumes.  It’s extremely frustrating.

Now what? Finding a means to shield the tail tip from the recurrent damage is a key component of happy tail syndrome treatment. You might be able to encourage it to heal if you can.

The key is creativity. These wild happy tails are difficult to maintain bandaged, and dogs aren’t always ready to do so. People have experimented with a wide variety of items, including pool noodles, toilet paper rolls, chopped water bottles, foam pipe insulating tubes, and syringe casings from your veterinarian. There are commercial kits that use cushioning devices that fit into a bandage on the tail to protect the dog’s tail.

Here are a few pointers: Try to keep it as light as you can. The likelihood that the bandage may go winging off with the wagging increases with its weight. I apply white first-aid tape that extends several inches down the tail before being incorporated into the bandage covering the wound. The goal is to increase the bandage’s “grab” so that it will adhere better. Make sure it’s not too tight! Keep the protective tube’s end open to allow air to flow to the tail tip.

Sadly, even if you are successful in helping your dog’s tail recover, it will probably reoccur again. You could try padding the walls, corners, and other surfaces where he constantly bumping his tail, but that’s difficult to accomplish and not very appealing when visitors are over. Only where there is room can you try to interact with your dog, but that is also impractical.

In Conclusion! Talk to your veterinarian about having the tail amputated if you can’t get it to mend or if you’re sick of returning home to a bloody scene straight out of a horror movie. If you go short enough, the surgery will take care of the traumatized tip and ensure that it never happens again. These dogs occasionally develop adorable tiny bob tails. You won’t get any blood splatter, and they are still free to wag as fiercely as they want.

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9 Best Tips for Potty Training your Puppy to Prevent Accidents at Home

One of the first things you’ll do to help your dog adjust to his new home is potty training, and there are several different approaches you can take. To ensure success for both you and your dog, try these seven tips.

potty training

1. Remain in One Potty Area for Potty Training

Decide where you want your new friend to “go” outside the house before you start potty training. Do you have a yard? Point them in the direction of a place that is easy to reach from the door. Dogs living in apartments should also be able to recognize open, accessible natural terrain that isn’t blocked by people or vehicles.

Once you’ve chosen the location you’ll take your dog during this potty training phase, be sure to take them there each time they need to go outdoors. Consistency is key while teaching a puppy to use the bathroom since dogs can scent their territory.

2. Recognize the Signs That They Need to Go

Although your new puppy may not be able to communicate with you in your native tongue, they will nonetheless make an effort to let you know when they need to go potty. Fortunately, there are several indicators you can watch for. As soon as you see them, take your dog outdoors to their designated potty training area:

  • Smelling his rear
  • Pacing in circles
  • Barking or scratching at the door
  • Sniffing the floor
  • Squatting

When your dog exhibits the final symptom on the list, it might already be too late. So that they are aware that their customary space is up for grabs before they go in the wrong location, be prepared to open the door nonetheless.

Plan beforehand so you can swiftly take your dog outside if you see any of these symptoms. Keep a leash directly by the door so you can quickly lead the pet outside. Keep in mind to direct your dog to the same location each time they need to urinate. Once they are aware of the location of their designated bathroom, they will go there on their own.

3. Establish a consistent mealtime

Maintain a routine for all meal and snack times while potty training a dog. This is beneficial in two ways: The first benefit of planned meals is that they will teach your dog when to expect meals throughout the day. Second, if you feed your dog at regular intervals, you may follow up and take them to their designated potty training area in the knowledge that they’ll be prepared to relieve themselves shortly after they finish eating.

4. Watch the Water Bowl

It’s likely that your dog will urinate frequently if they consume a lot of water. During the potty training stage, take your puppy outside soon after drinking so that they are in the appropriate location at the appropriate time.

5. Step Outdoors Often

Take your dog outside as soon as you wake up, after each feeding, and whenever you notice signs that they might need to relieve themselves. A lot of dogs have a bowel movement 30 minutes after eating. Until you have a better understanding of how frequently your dog does potty, take them outside every hour to prevent accidents. Based on their age, the following are some rough guidelines for how long puppies can “hold it”:

  • Puppy age two months must go potty every two hours.
  • At three-month-old you can wait four hours.
  • At 4-month-old you can wait five hours.
  • It can be held for almost six hours by 5-month-old.

While small breeds with smaller bladders may require more frequent bathroom breaks, big breeds have a stronger ability to wait. Most dogs can wait seven hours or more by the time they are seven months old. They ought to know how to alert you when they need to go outside by that age. Always take your dog out before you go to bed to prevent 3 a.m. wake-up calls or morning surprises.

6. Praise Them

Everyone enjoys being told when they are doing a good job, and your dog will benefit greatly from this encouragement. It doesn’t matter if you give them treats or just pat them while saying “excellent work.” Just make sure they understand how much you value their attempts to conduct themselves properly. To teach the command “go to the bathroom,” think about identifying the deed. For instance, you might tell your dog to “take a break” before engaging in play.

7. Use a Crate

Puppies prefer not to go potty close to where they eat or sleep. By crate training your dog, you can use it to reinforce housetraining. A puppy can easily relieve themselves in one part of a bathroom or laundry room while sleeping and playing in the remaining areas. If you need to use the phone or check your email while keeping an eye on your young dog, keep them in their kennel.

They will let you know if they need to use the restroom because they won’t want to mess up this place. Put them back in the kennel when you reach home if they play unproductively while outside. A crucial lesson that every puppy should learn is that if they mess up the kennel, they will have to temporarily live with it.

8. Address Mishaps Calmly

Accidents happen frequently during house training. When your dog needs to go outdoors to the designated pee place, quietly direct them there immediately away. Punishing a puppy could exacerbate the problem and lead to more accidents at home.

Clear the space right away. Ammonia should be avoided since it smells a lot like pee. While disinfecting, bleach cannot get rid of odors. Your dog will probably go potty there again if they smell feces in your house. Use an enzymatic cleanser or odor neutralizer made especially for pet excrement to clean the stained area. While it dries, keep your dog away from the area.

9. Being Ready for Different Situations

When encountering new people or animals, puppies may squat out of excitement or respect. Before meet-and-greets, give them bathroom breaks to prevent a mess. Take frequent bathroom breaks while traveling as well. If you want to board your dog while you are away, make sure to provide the facility detailed instructions to ensure consistency. Restart house training if you move to a new residence. Limit them to one area of the house, show them where the new toilet is, and give them praise when they behave well.

Many dogs don’t like going outside in the rain or don’t like going potty in the snow. A puppy may be terrified of the cold and rain for the first time, but even older dogs prefer to potty in comfort. To provide some weather protection, keep an umbrella close at hand.

Create a trail to your dog’s chosen bathroom location so they can go without exposing their tails to the bitterly cold ground. Increase their reward for using the restroom in poor weather by giving them twice as many treats. This will lessen the likelihood of unpleasant surprises beneath the piano bench. Even the best-trained dogs are more likely to have accidents in the house if they are overly anxious, stressed out, or afraid. Consult your veterinarian to rule out any health issues whenever your house-trained dog has a number of accidents.

Not all dogs pick things up at the same rate. By eight or ten weeks old, some puppies are experts at house training. Other puppies, such those of toy breeds, may take longer to grasp your expectations and may not show consistency until they are a few months old. In most circumstances, all dogs can learn to relieve themselves in a permitted area with your patience, encouragement, and persistence.

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What Causes Dogs to Kick Grass? – #1 Important Information

After they poop, dogs will occasionally use their hind feet to scratch or kick the ground. Give them freedom to; we don’t know why they do it, but it seems they like it.

It’s a routine ritual. A dog urinates or defecates, then scuffs dirt, grass, or gravel into the air in what appears to be an accomplishment or at the very least, a mark of celebration. What motivates canines to behave in this way?

dog kick grass

Here are some theories why they may kick grass.

  • In order to keep other dogs and animals away from their territory or to make them aware of their presence, dogs mark their territory (scent mark).
  • Kicking the ground activates the dog’s smell glands, which release pheromones (scent marking, continued).
  • Instead of being learnt, this behavior is innate and hereditary.
  • A social exhibition or a visual message can be made by kicking the ground.
  • It’s also a technique for burying or hiding trash.

According to certain research, males engage in this behavior substantially more frequently than females when other dogs are present.

Dogs may do this for a variety of reasons, depending on the people present and what they are attempting to convey through visual, olfactory, and aural cues. He claims that dogs who exhibit this behavior appreciate it and that it appears to have significance for them.

If your dog’s grass kicking harms your yard or causes other issues, find entertaining diversionary strategies and encourage other habits until this one is under control. If not, wait until your dog has finished speaking before moving on with your walk. This will allow them to finish their message.

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7 Safe Tips on How to Properly Bathe a Dog

Here is the best advice and tips on how to bathe a dog, from selecting the right shampoo to washing a dog’s head.

A little shampoo, some water…. How challenging can bathing a dog be? Occasionally, harder than you’d expect. Regular dog baths are an essential element of pet care, regardless of whether your dog enjoys them or flees when you say “B-A-T-H.”

dog bathe

How Frequently Should I Bathe My Dog?

You usually don’t need to bathe your dog more frequently than once a month, unless your pet had spent the afternoon playing about in mud puddles. Breed-specific factors come into play here; for example, longer-coated dogs may need more regular bathing or even visits to a groomer. Consult a groomer or your veterinarian if you’re unsure how frequently to soap up your dog. (IMPORTANT TIP) Giving a bath once a month is crucial, though.

Dogs develop a completely new layer of skin cells every 30 days or so. “The aged cells therefore slough off. Dander and other similar products are produced in this way. Therefore, regular grooming or bathing helps to reduce that dander.

Important Products, Tools and Tips

Your initial choice will probably be where you will bathe your dog. Your decision will probably be influenced by the size of your dog. A little dog might fit in the kitchen sink for a bath, but a large dog will need more room. Some pet owners like dog-specific bathtubs, whether they are standalone units, built-in units, or located in a DIY dog bath facility. Fur and filth can be prevented from blocking your family bathtub by using a designated dog bath space. But it’s also acceptable if you want to bathe your dog in the household bathtub. Simply pick a location where you can bring your dog in and out of the cleaning area without risk.

Then, make sure you have all your supplies and tools close at hand before turning on the faucet. You don’t want to have to go around your house chasing a wet dog in search of conditioner. Of course, you’ll need towels, shampoo, and conditioner on your supplies list. Just in case, you might also want an eye wash and a non-slip bath mat.

Select the right shampoo and conditioner.

You need to start with the correct supplies if you want to give your dog a thorough bath. Make careful to use shampoo designed exclusively for pets. Dogs’ skin has a different pH than people’s. Therefore, they are more alkaline. It can irritate someone’s skin if they use shampoo designed for people.

Puppy-specific shampoo may be a good idea when bathing a puppy. Puppy shampoo’s pH is similar to that of a dog’s eyes, so if any goes in there, it won’t bother the eyes as much.

Ask a groomer what products they use if you’re unclear of the ones to choose for your particular dog. Use a gentle shampoo, a shampoo made to treat the ailment your dog is having, such as itchy skin, may be the best option.

The crucial next step is applying a conditioner to your dog’s coat after shampooing. When doing your own grooming at home, you should always follow up with a conditioner because using shampoo strips the skin and hair of many of their natural oils. Therefore, your conditioner both hydrates the epidermis and seals up every cell on the exterior of the hair shaft itself. “Basically, using the conditioner is rehydrating.”

Dog Washing Methods

The real fun starts once you have selected the ideal location and ready-to-use supplies. Here is our bathing process:

  1. Place or coax your dog into the bathtub or washing machine. Treats are a fantastic way to start the process off right!
  2. Shampoo should be diluted with water. Try mixing some in with some water in a bowl, or put the shampoo in a dispenser with some water. Shampoo spreads and suds up better when it is diluted. As most shampoos are thick and concentrated, adding water can make them easier to use.
  3. Give your dog a warm water bath. Taking the temperature with your hand is OK.
  4. The dog received two baths. The shampoo helps remove the filth by binding with it the first time. When you wash your hair a second time, you’re actually washing your skin and removing any lingering oil and grime. A loofah sponge can help to assist disseminate the shampoo. Don’t forget to pay attention to areas like the belly, armpits, and foot pads. Above everything, strive to make it enjoyable. “You can actually massage the entire dog with your hands. And if you’re doing that, using warm water, and the dog is in a warm environment, it should be enjoyable for the dog, according to her.
  5. Use a conditioner. After a few minutes, leave it on and then rinse it off.
  6. Rinse thoroughly until the fur is free of any remaining product. While making sure that all of the soap is removed, you should scrub them very well. That’s arguably the most crucial factor, because if you don’t completely remove the soap, it will remain on your skin and aggravate it. It’s even worse than not bathing them.

How to Face-Wash a Dog Tip

One of the trickiest steps in giving your dog a bath is washing his head. Avoid getting water or soap in your dog’s eyes, nose, or other delicate body parts. Delaying this step until after the bath and suggests wiping your pet’s face with a washcloth.

Your dog’s head and face should be gently washed with the washcloth dipped in soapy water. After that, rinse with clear water using a fresh washcloth. Make sure all of the soap is removed from those locations.

You should try to avoid the eye area as much as possible when applying shampoo, even if the shampoo is intended to be gentler on puppies’ eyes. Have an eye wash on hand to use if shampoo does get in your dog’s eyes. Moistening eye goobers on your dog before gently removing them with a toothbrush.

How to Bathe Your Dog when it doesn’t like Water Tips

Even though some dog breeds adore the water (golden retrievers come to mind), many dogs tremble at the mere sound of the bath tap going on. Give your dog lots of praise while bathing him to help combat this. Treats are preferable to praise. When your dog next sees you gathering the dog shampoo, make sure he associates it with good things.

Having a companion hold the dog while you give him a wash is also beneficial. Additionally, if at all feasible, begin bathing your dog as a puppy to get him accustomed to the experience.

Tips for After a Bath

First, try your best to towel-dry your dog. Then, put a human hairdryer to a medium or cool setting or use a hairdryer designed specifically for dogs. When your dog is drying off, start brushing him. As long as your dog doesn’t shiver excessively or get the chills, you might also let him air dry.

“Every 10 or 15 minutes run a brush through them as they’re drying and that’ll help avoid mats or help separate mats if they have them,” if you’re air-drying your dog.

Your dog will look and smell better after a bath. Additionally, you will feel good knowing that you did something good for your dog’s wellbeing and appearance.

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Why you should always do research before adopting from a breeder

Hey guys, today let’s discuss hips and joints, and why it is so important to do your research if adopting a dog from a “breeder”.  Unfortunately, just because a puppy has a hefty price tag, does not mean they have had proper health screening.  Today we will explain why this simple step can save you literally thousands of dollars, and a lot of heartbreak.  So, you see an add for a cute little fluffy golden retriever puppy (maybe a doodle mix), not papered, and for a great price.  Good deal, right?  You aren’t planning to breed, so in your mind it is meant to be, and the price is half what you have seen other goldens/doodles go for.

adopting from a breeder

Beware of about adopting from backyard breeders!

Wrong!  Backyard breeders, those who are breeding just for the profit, do not do any health screening.  Unfortunately, they get away with this quite frequently.  These poor puppies end up with so many health related issues.  Did you know that golden’s are the poster child for bad hips and joints, due to people not doing proper health checks and background checks, and overbreeding them?  Yes, the parents may seem healthy and well taken care of, vet records look good, vaccinated, but how about their joints and eyes? 

I can’t tell you how many broken hearts I have seen, because someone brings in a 9 month old puppy that has bilateral hip dysplasia, so bad that there is barely a socket.  In these cases, each hip can cost up and above $10,000 each, not to mention the elbows and the knees will most likely be terrible.  Now, this adorable 9 month old otherwise healthy puppy is looking at a lifetime of extreme pain, and being completely crippled by age 2 without extreme surgeries.

This is not that uncommon; I just had a case last week.  This scenario is completely preventable as well if the breeders had just done their part.  Even if you have dog insurance, 20% of $20,000+ in surgeries is still a good chunk of change.  Goldens are not the only breeds affected, many large breeds suffer from hip and joint arthritis.  Small breeds tend to get luxating patellas and eye issues, which can also be genetic.  If the parents have a major joint issue, you can bet the pups may as well.

What can you do as a potential adopter?  Ask to see the hip and elbow certifications, prior to visiting a puppy.  Do not visit the puppy before asking, you will fall in love with the pup and take him/her home, trust me😊  Make sure that the owners have done either OFA certification of both hips and elbows, or at the very least Pennhip certification.  If either of the parents is under 2 years of age, you can bet they did not do the certifications, as they pup needs to be at least 2 years of age to OFA certify the hips, and at least 6-9 months for pennhips. 

These are not perfect, however, they are a good indicator of future health concerns.  Do not adopt a pup from any breeder with hips that are less than “good”.  They go “excellent”, then “good”, “fair”, and of course “poor”.  Fair and poor are obviously bad, and should not be ever bred.  A first puppy wellness exam is not good enough.  They are just checking teeth, weight, and for hernias (also genetic).  This will absolutely not tell you if this pup will be healthy still in 9 months.

Now, if you find yourself adopting a puppy or adult dog from a shelter, make sure they have a proper vet examination prior to taking them home.  You usually have 3 days to do so.  I have had many people take home a dog to find out that the knees both have CCL tears or severe dysplasia.  Unfortunately, you can’t insure this with any pet insurance, as it was a previous condition.  Make sure that you are in a financial spot to take care of this sweet dog, so he/she is not carted back to the shelter and stressed even more. 

We can definitely help you with bracing the CCL tears if needed, however, make sure you know exactly what health issues there are prior to adopting.  If you adopt a puppy, I certainly would get insurance right away.  Also, there are many good breeders, who have generations upon generations of certified dogs, all health screened and with sound hips.  Just make sure you find the right one.

The takeaway here is that it is always a good idea to health screen and find out the history of your potential new family member, prior to adopting.  Even if the breeder has a health guarantee, could you honestly take back a 9 month old puppy that your family has bonded with, knowing they will be most likely put down?  It breaks my heart to talk to someone that has a very young dog with preventable diseases. 

Unfortunately, by purchasing these dogs to ‘save’ them from the breeder is just encouraging that breeder to keep going.  The only way to stop the cycle is to stop purchasing puppies from breeders who do not do the proper health screens.  If purchasing a small breed, such as a breed that is brachycephalic or a “squished” cute nose, make sure the eyes have been certified.  These breeds are very prone to cataract issues, and can go blind at a young age without surgery. 

Perhaps instead of going to a breeder, it is better to adopt from the shelter, as most shelter dogs come with a full vet exam, and at least you will know what they have prior to adopting and can prepare.  Most shelters have certified technicians and vets on staff, that would be more than happy to explain any health issues, and what you are looking at.  If you have any questions, or need advice, always feel free to contact us or visit our Facebook Page for more tips!

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5 Different Types of Dog Toys – How to choose the best and safest dog toys

Dog Toys are not a luxury but rather an absolute necessity for dogs and other pets.

The well-being of your dog depends on its toys. When you must leave your dog at home, toys keep them entertained and reassure them when they’re anxious. Even the development of some negative behaviors in your dog can be delayed with the use of toys.

Dogs are frequently more than happy to play with whatever object they can get their paws on.  To avoid any “unscheduled” activities, you will therefore need to monitor your dog’s playtime carefully.

dog toys

Maintain safety with dog toys

The size, activity level, and preferences of your dog all play a part in determining whether a dog toy is safe or dangerous. The environment in which your dog spends their time is another factor to take into account. The safety of any particular toy cannot be guaranteed, however we can provide the following recommendations.

Dogs typically find the most dangerous things to be the things that they find most appealing. Remove all strings, ribbons, rubber bands, children’s toys, pantyhose, and other potentially ingestible materials from your home to dog-proof it.

Make sure the dog toys you buy for your dog are the right size. Smaller toys run the risk of being ingested or getting stuck in your dog’s throat.

If you don’t watch your dog playing with squeaky toys, they can eat the squeaking object since they feel the need to find and destroy it.

Toys that aren’t “dog-proof” should be avoided or modified by taking out any ribbons, strings, eyeballs, or other pieces that could be chewed off and consumed. Dog Toys that are tearing or starting to shatter into pieces should be thrown away. Check the labels on plush animals to make sure they are suitable for children under three and don’t have any poisonous fillings. Nutshells and polystyrene beads are examples of problematic fillings, but even “safe” fillings aren’t actually digestible. Though certain soft dog toys are more durable than others, keep in mind that they are not invincible. Soft toys ought to be washable in the machine.


If you’re considering giving your dog a rawhide chew toy, make sure to ask your vet which ones are secure and suitable for your dog. Give these toys to your dog only when you can keep an eye on them as they may present choking concerns.

Rawhide is a byproduct of the brutal international fur trade in large quantities. Consider toys made of extremely firm rubber, which are safer and last longer, as a kinder substitute.

Industry insiders categorize dog toys into many categories since they are now so common and diversified. Here are five categories for toys:

  • Active dog toys – Products made of hard rubber exist in a variety of forms and dimensions and are enjoyable to carry around and chew. Rope and woven toys typically come in “bone” shapes with knotted ends for dogs who enjoy tug-of-war and gnawing on novel textures.

Tennis balls are excellent fetching toys for dogs, but they don’t hold up well to chewing. Tennis balls that have been eaten through should be thrown away since they could choke your pet.

  • Distraction toys – Kong®- style toys can occupy a puppy or dog for hours, especially if they are packed with broken-up treats. If your dog is allowed to eat peanut butter by your veterinarian, make sure it is not sweetened with xylitol (which is hazardous to dogs) and mix it into the crushed-up goodies for a more enticing and active snack.

    Large rubber shapes known as “busy-box” or “feeder” toys can be filled with goodies. Your dog can access the treats by moving the cube with their nose, mouth, and paws. Being fed through a feeder-style toy is beneficial for many dogs who have a tendency to gobble their food too quickly.

  • Comfort toys – Although soft stuffed animals are useful for many things, not all dogs should play with them. Here are some pointers for picking the ideal stuffed animal:
    • Some dogs enjoy carrying plush toys. Choose a toy that is portable if your dog views it as a buddy.
    • Choose a toy that is durable enough to survive the dog’s attacks and big enough to prevent inadvertent ingestion because some dogs like to shake or “kill” their toys.

An old t-shirt, pillowcase, towel, or other piece of filthy laundry, especially one that smells like you, can be quite comforting to a dog. Be aware that diligent fluffing, transporting, and nosing may result in the item being.

Pups’ teething toys

Puppies develop the impulse to chew on everything between the ages of 12 weeks and 6 months as their baby teeth fall out and their adult teeth begin to erupt through their gums. Providing children with teething toys will increase their comfort and protect your hands, shoes, and furniture. Rubber toys and sturdy nylon bones can withstand weeks of chewing without shattering into fragments that could be ingested. You may purchase specialist puppy teething toys that can be frozen and have calming textures printed on them.

Making toys durable

Only have a few toys available at once to ensure weekly toy rotation for your dog. Maintain a range of accessible kinds. You might want to keep a favorite toy for your dog out at all times if it is soft.

Give your dog toys that may be used in a variety of ways, including carrying, rolling, shaking, and comforting.

Toys that are “found” are frequently considerably more appealing than toys that are clearly introduced. Your dog will burn off excess energy by playing the game of “find the toy” or “find the treat” without the need for much space.

Your dog should have a lot of engaging toys. Because dogs want active “people time,” interactive play is crucial for strengthening the link between you and your pet. Toys that promote the attachment between a person and their pet include balls, flying discs, and other items.

Your dog can release pent-up mental and physical energy from boredom by concentrating on a particular task, such as continuously returning a ball, or Frisbee or playing “hide-and-seek” with treats or toys, in a constrained period of time and area. Interactive play provides a chance for socialization and teaches young, hyperactive, untrained dogs about proper and improper behavior, such as jumping up or being mouthy.

For more information you can each out to us via our contact form or visit our Facebook Page.

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Keep your pet off of Santa’s bad list right up until his arrival! It’s the holiday season!

It’s likely that your furry family member will be present to take part in the celebrations when everyone is gathered around the tree to open gifts and spread joy and laughter. However, your pet might find the ideal moment to cause some trouble while everyone is preoccupied with presenting gifts and playing with new toys.

Once your animals get into the holiday spirit, you never know what they’ll do! Keep in mind these easy advices to keep your dog safe this holiday season!

Your tree is probably going to be the focal point of the celebrations this year, but it may also be a tremendous temptation for your dog! Make careful to hang the shiny tinsel, bright lights, and ornaments in the shape of tennis balls out of reach of your animal pets. Some mischievous dogs could still attempt to jump on the tree, so leaving something noisy, like crumpled aluminum foil or a bottle filled with tiny objects, can alert the dancer of imminent danger. Additionally, if you have a live tree, make sure to pick up all of the fallen needles since if consumed, they can cause serious stomach discomfort in your pet.

Your pet’s health and safety are at risk from holiday plants other than trees. Keep in mind that plants like holly, mistletoe, and poinsettias are harmful to dogs, so keep them out of reach!

It could be a good idea to inspect all electrical decorations, both indoors and outdoors. To prevent your furry pals from getting caught and creating a mess, tape the wires to the wall!

When it’s time to unwrap presents, be sure to have a garbage bag on hand to dispose of wrapping paper, twine, and tape as soon as they’re no longer required.

It might be wise to confine your pet to a comfortable area with access to water if you’re expecting a large number of guests, at least until the ruckus dies down. Before your guests arrive, you might want to review your dog’s obedience commands; we don’t want Grandma to trip over a huge, puppy hug! Additionally, it’s crucial to let your visitors know they shouldn’t give your pets any table food. You wouldn’t want your dog to eat too much and have to spend the rest of the holidays taking care of their stomach ache, even if some foods aren’t particularly dangerous to them.

The team at Posh Dog Knee Brace hopes that these simple reminders allow your pet to have fun with the family this holiday season! If you would like any information on our brace you can reach out to us via our contact form or visit our Facebook page.

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