Hey guys, Nikki with posh dog knee braces here. So, first of all I can’t stress enough the need to do some form of physical therapy. We send every patient home with a 12 week recovery calendar and exercises, however, we need you to keep those up for the full 9 months. Whether you find a holistic or physical therapy clinic to help you with water treadmill or PT, you need to keep you dog active in some way.
Lack of activity will cause a joint to “lock up” after the scar tissue has formed, meaning there is not going to be the same amount of range of motion there. There also can be loss of muscle. The brace alone is not enough to build muscle, you will need to keep walking your dog, and doing some form of exercise program. This is needed whether you do surgery, Conservative management, or bracing. Doing nothing will result in loss of muscle, loss of range of motion, and most likely arthritis and pain down the road.
We have a lovely list of holistic veterinarians and rehab clinics around the US and in Canada, so reach out if you are struggling to find a clinic. The clinics on our list are partners with posh, and know how to treat our patients, as well as measure and fit the brace if needed. We do have some things we can have you do from home as well, if PT is just not in the budget. I am happy with walks, simple exercises, and passive range of motion.
What is PROM? This is you gently bending and flexing the knee, as well as the hip. I have videos we send to you on how to do this stretching, but this is key to keep flexibility in the joint, and not end up with lack of movement there.
Please let us know if you have any questions, poshdogkneebrace.com or visit our Facebook Page. Thanks!
Hey guys, this is Nikki Lead Veterinary technician with posh. Today let’s talk about dog treats. I have so many clients that are taking charge of what their dog is eating, and I want to elaborate a bit on that. In my other blog, we discussed the importance of finding a food that is without corn, wheat, and soy, and finding a good protein as the first ingredient. Some will even go as far as raw feeding, and that is great for those that have the time!
So, you have done all this research, found a dog food that fits your dog’s healthy lifestyle, but they are still showing signs of skin issues, obesity, and inflammation? This means it is time to find out exactly what goes into your dog’s mouth each day, you will actually be surprised how many treats and things your dog actually gets per day.
First off, start by placing a treat inside a bag for every treat you give your dog. If you give them a milk bone for example, you put one into the bag as well. At the end of the day, take note of what you gave your dog, plus what treats you used.
You will be amazed how many people don’t think about dog treats, and are spending literally hundreds of dollars every month on good quality dog food. Yet, after just one milk bone, you have basically undone all of the good you were doing. Did you know the main ingredient in common dog treats is wheat? That is the first ingredient. The second is some kind of by product, then corn, and so on.
Do you see the problem? Dog’s can’t digest wheat and corn well, and they can cause all sorts of issues with their digestive system. So, please stop giving milk bones to your dog if they have any injuries, itchy skin, or you are trying to get them to loose weight.
Now I am not telling you to stop giving dog treats, not at all! My sweet girl gets her treats daily, but we give her healthy treats, and are more aware of what she gets. Probiotic treats are great! My all time favorite is freeze dried treats. They are a bit more costly than milk bones, but only have one ingredient! Beef liver, or chicken, lamb, even bison if your dog is food protein sensitive.
So, please look into freeze dried treats, sweet potato, cooked vegetables, or some cooked chicken instead of grabbing those milk bones! Please let me know if you have any other questions! You can reach me at poshintake1@gmail.com , poshdogkneebrace.com or visit our Facebook Page.
Hey guys, this is Nikki Lead Veterinary Technician with Posh Dog Knee Braces. Today, let’s talk about Cranial Cruciate Ligament Repair (CCL/ACL) tears in a dog, and what your options are. First of all, if your dog is limping on the hind leg, be sure to get a diagnosis from your veterinarian before making any decisions. Once that takes place, be firm with your Veterinarian if needed and ask for the exact diagnosis. If they feel that your dog has a Cranial Cruciate Ligament tear, or CCL tear, then you do have some decisions to make moving forward. Let’s go into the options, and the pros and cons, as well as long term expectations.
First off, depending on your veterinarian, they may refer you to a specialist to verify the diagnosis. This is completely up to you, but do know that if you go to a specialist, they are typically surgeons, and will not be happy without scheduling your dog for surgery. Please know that you can say no. I can’t stress enough how important it is for you to take a breath, and go over all options before signing that dotted line.
Choosing to do just conservative management, with no support or surgery. This seems to be gaining momentum and popularity, because obviously options can cost money. There are supportive things to do, such as keeping your dog in a kennel, leash walks outside, supplements, acupuncture, laser, prp, ect. While this option is better for the budget, it is not for the busy owner, or owners with small children and other pets. While it sounds great, reality is that there is a great chance your pup will continue to re-injure their knee. At some point, the door will open, and your dog will want to run.
Someone will forget, your dog looks like he is dong better at 3 months, and in he comes with the leg hiked all the way up to the groin. Sound familiar? This can be a tough cycle, and the bones in the knee are still able to move, causing pressure on the meniscus as well increasing your dog’s chance of arthritis down the road. So, can a knee heal with conservative management alone? Possibly, but there could be long term issues if you do not do passive range of motion, PT, and exercising along with CM alone.
This is by far my favorite option, from years of experience working with orthopedics. Using an orthotic Brace in conjunction with PROM and PT, as well as supplements and support. Now I am not talking about the cheap over the counter neoprene braces that have a spiderweb of straps connecting to the harness or back, those are no better than just letting the knee recover alone.
I am talking about a custom made premium orthotic brace, such as the Posh Dog Knee Brace. Posh Brace fully stabilizes the knee, allowing for range of motion and squatting, while also acting as a shock absorber for the meniscus. This is going to help give a smoother recovery, and allow that scar tissue to form without a lot of re-injuries. Thus, this is one of the safer options, and definitely still less than surgery.
Tightrope, lateral suture, or extracapsular repair. This is the cheapest of the surgical options, and should only be used on patients under 30-40lbs, as the suture has double the chance of failing in larger breed patients. This method usually is in the $2k-$3k ballpark range now, and is literally using fishing line/or suture to wrap around the knee joint to keep things in place. There are several ways this can and usually does fail. The crimps can come off, the suture can break, the suture can slip, ect.
These patients are immobile for months, and do get a lot of atrophy in the joint. This seems to be sore to recover from, and without a brace post op, your dog is going to need to be kenneled for weeks to months, to allow for scar tissue to properly form. This technique is similar to if you braced, however, without the full stabilization and support, and double the cost.
TPLO or TTA surgery. Both of these will be suggested by your vet or surgeon, usually first. They both entail cutting of the tibia bone, and re-alignment using a plate and screws. This is permanent, and there is no going back if something doesn’t go the way it was meant to. I always save this for my last option, as it is extremely invasive, expensive, and does not give a guarantee of working. Too many patients have had lifelong lameness due to choosing this option, and are not able to recover fully.
There are many weeks needed for kenneling, so the leg will atrophy. This also causes overcompensating on the good knee, which again increases the chances of another CCL tear in that leg. If surgery does go well, and you are able to do a full Physical Therapy Program post op with a professional, your dog may have a good outcome, but this is not without risk.
Please email me at poshintake1@gmail.com if you would like to ask more questions about Cranial Cruciate Ligament Repair, CCL/ACL tears in dogs, and what the best options are for your pup. You can also contact via our forms or visit our Facebook page.
How to exercise your dog using our brace. Hey guys, this is Nikki Lead Veterinary Technician with Posh Dog Knee Braces,we are going to talk about excerises for your dog. Today let’s talk about how to keep your injured dog active using our brace and how to exercise with it. As you know, after surgery there is several weeks that you would need to have your dog kenneled with no exercising, leading to atrophy of the muscles and overcompensating on the other joints. With our brace, patients are able to fully weight bear and start walks right away, decreasing the chances for overcompensating.
Just like us, we want to start out slowly, so as not to over-use those muscles that have been unused since the onset of the injury. I suggest starting out with no more than 2 fifteen minute walks per day for excerising, and gradually increasing the amount of walking each week by about 10-15 minutes, as the patient starts getting stronger. Each patient is different in the amount you are able to start walks, and there may be some initial soreness for the first 2 weeks. This will go away as we start gaining muscle back.
Once our patients are able to walk comfortably for at least 20-30 minutes, after a few weeks, we can start encouraging things like swimming, hills, beach walking, and curbwork for exercises. Swimming can be at a physical therapy clinic, swimming pool, or a beach. Just no jumping into the water and climbing yet. Short hills and small hikes are great tools to keep those muscles working out.
We do offer a 12 week physical therapy program with each of our patients, which includes stretches and different exercises, such as figure 8’s, curb work, walks, hydrotherapy, ect. It is important to keep up with passive range of motion as you work into more activities, to prevent soreness and stiffness in the muscles and joints. As we are developing scar tissue, we want to keep up with gentle movements in the knee. This is important to help the development of healthy scar tissues.
After a few months, gentle trots and increased activities will be ok, as long as the patient is supervised. As we start to approach the 6-9 month mark, there should be more and more stability to the joint, even without the brace on. As the knee begins to stabilize, we can do more and more activities. We still need to refrain from excessive running, jumping, twisting, or playing fetch until things are fully recovered. This is usually after about 12 months. Always ask our technicians if you have any questions on activities planned.
For more information about how to exercise your dog you can contact through our contact form or visit or Facebook Page.
The majority of dog owners are aware that socializing a dog is best done when the dog is still a puppy. Between the ages of three and twelve weeks, a dog is most sensitive and receptive, thus the earlier you can socialize your dog, the better. After twelve weeks, a puppy may be quite resistant to anything new or unfamiliar.
Unfortunately, socializing a dog well during this window isn’t always possible. Perhaps as a young puppy, your dog suffered from a serious illness, and your veterinarian advised keeping them inside and away from other dogs. Or maybe you found them later in life and they simply never had a good chance to meet people.
Whatever the reason, your dog doesn’t have to live a life without companions or the opportunity to freely play with others because they weren’t socialized as a puppy. Here is some advice on how to socialize your dog:
Dog walks are fantastic ways for your dog to observe and maybe interact with other dogs and humans while also practicing polite conduct in public.
Why? Well, for one thing, because going for a stroll will always put you in more social circumstances than staying at home. However, walks are also great for socializing dogs because they will be calmer and more obedient because they will have less pent-up energy as a result of the exercise.
Remember not to yell at your dog or pull back on the leash if they bark or otherwise act out because this will just make them more excited, make the experience unpleasant, and teach them to associate that enthusiasm with other dogs.
Instead, keep your energy calm and assertive while distracting them with a reprimand, such as a sound you’ve trained them to respond to, a fast tug of the leash in a sideways direction, or a touch. You can always peacefully leave if all else fails.
If you are aware that your dog barks or growls at other dogs, wearing a muzzle can make things easier.
Of course, this eliminates the possibility of biting or attacking, but it may also reduce tension between the dogs, allowing for a more enjoyable meeting encounter.
Don’t rush things, but if you can get your dog involved in one new activity per week, it will help them socialize and stay calm and well-behaved. This can be accomplished by using a leash and muzzle, as well as by initially training your dog to be an observer.
For instance, you may gradually introduce your unsocialized dog to dog parks by strolling them around the perimeter of the fence and letting them observe the dogs having fun instead of just bringing them in and hoping for the best.
Socialize your dog doesn’t have to be something that you struggle through on your own, you can always reach out to a dog trainer for additional help.
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You must socialize your dog with people if you want him to be hospitable to both friends and family. Here are some pointers for socializing your dog with others.
Congratulations! You’ve just added a new dog or puppy to your home, and both he and you are adjusting to life together rapidly. It’s possible that you didn’t consider how much or even how to socialize your new dog or puppy when you were adopting them. You must introduce your dog to new people if you want him to be hospitable to both friends and relatives.
A major deal—for everyone—is introducing your significant other to the family. It’s quite different when you socialize your dog to your significant other. Regardless of how hostile your family may be against a new spouse, at least they won’t bite, right?
It’s been “the two of you” when you share your life with your dog prior to welcoming a new person. Your dog will be used to being the “top dog,” so when you bring home a significant other, he can feel displaced and not be happy about it.
You can do the following things to make the introductions go more smoothly:
There’s a good possibility you won’t have time to set up these “neutral ground” conversations if you’re throwing a party or hosting houseguests. Your visitors should be aware that they are entering your dog’s domain and that it can take the dog some time to get used to them. These folks are strangers to your dog, so you should introduce them to him the same way you would any stranger. These first socialize interaction must be watched over and conducted as calmly as possible.
You can introduce your dog to home guests in the following ways:
You must maintain command of the circumstance. Keep your dog on a leash if you know he will become aggressive against outsiders who invade his domain or if you are unsure of his reaction. Allow visitors to enter, and once they are inside, let your dog start the introduction.
Allow your dog to greet your guests while keeping him on a short leash. Allow your guests to give him a tiny present if you are confident that he will accept it well. This serves to further solidify the association between stranger and treatment. Give your dog a treat when he behaves well and is calm.
Use the commands “sit,” “down,” or “stay” if your dog has been taught them when guests arrive at your home.
You should greet visitors first so that your dog can observe your interactions. Your dog will detect the pleasant interaction, will notice that you’re relaxed, and that might encourage him to relax, whether you shake their hands or embrace them.
Inform your visitors if your dog jumps. Inform your visitors that if your dog jumps on them, they should turn their backs to the dog and place their arms across their chests. Ask them to refrain from addressing your dog by name or even from saying “down.” The fact that they are turning away will deter the dog from jumping because he is not being petted and is being ignored.
You could choose to let your dog off his leash once the visitors have entered your home and he seems at ease with them being there. Keep an eye on his level of tension and provide your visitors with advice on how to speak with him.
Extreme caution must be used whenever children are present, whether you are bringing a new baby home, hosting visitors with children, or running into kids on the street.
Children squeal, run around, and sometimes yank the dog’s fur or unintentionally step on its paws or tail. A youngster running around may in some cases and with some breeds trigger the dog’s predatory instinct, which can have catastrophic results. Avoid interacting with dogs you don’t know too much. If you have children and are adopting a dog for your family, do your research to make sure the dog is “kid friendly.”
Here are some pointers to socialize your dog to kids in a secure way:
You, the pet parent, must pay attention to your dog and his body language if you want to foster positive connections between your dog or puppy and visitors to your home, people you meet on the street, or if you’re bringing home a new, little human. When he feels at ease, move cautiously. When your dog shows signs of anxiety, you should go more slowly or remove him from the environment and try again later.
Dogs strive to win over their owners. They might take some time to warm up to a stranger, but with time and encouragement, your dog and the people in your life will develop a close friendship that will last a lifetime.
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Give your dog a designated digging area and restrict him unsupervised access to the areas where you don’t want holes to be dug if you want to completely stop undesired digging.
Digging is among many dogs’ favorite pastimes when it comes to their natural behavior. Digging is frequently discouraged for dogs who live with people, which is unfortunate.
There are many reasons why dogs dig holes in the ground:
Avoiding digging entirely is the best solution. Until you’re sure your doggy can amuse himself without digging, don’t leave him outside unattended. Look around your yard to find the best sites for digging, such as gopher mounds, regions with loose ground, or damp areas that are conducive to digging. Of course, some dogs may dig wherever they feel like it, but removing the temptation makes it simpler to focus your dog’s attention on better habits.
If you must leave your digging doggy alone in the yard, use management to help stop practice sessions for the undesirable activity. If your dog likes to dig, you might want to consider a secure enclosure like a dog run or utilize a reliable exercise pen that is set up to prevent access to certain places. Just while she is learning, though; it won’t last forever!
It’s a good idea to assess your dog’s overall enrichment honestly. Does your dog go for daily walks outside of the house and/or yard? Is the path always the same? Do you vary your routine by doing some exercise while you walk? Does your dog ever accompany you on errands to new (dog-friendly) locations if he is comfortable in public? Dogs frequently dig when they’re bored. Ask him honestly what else he has planned for the week to see if you can shake things up a bit.
If your dog has a history of digging up stuff, try some of the following:
Create a digging pit by filling a plastic wading pool or a child’s sandbox with sand or dirt. Compared to dirt, sand leaves less of a mess. bury the toys your dog enjoys most. Show him the reward pit and assist him in finding it with excitement. Don’t forget to replace the toys buried within the pit and continue assisting him in finding the treasures. The “hides” may get smaller and more difficult to spot as he improves.
Digging holes at random? Try replacing the majority of the dirt in the hole, adding some of your dog’s waste on top, then covering it with the remaining earth. Digging for fun and discovering waste can be very unpleasant for some dogs. As your dog tries out new digging techniques, you’ll probably need to repeat this process a few times, but for many dogs, the regular experience of uncovering waste will cause them to reevaluate their backyard behavior, especially when combined with your efforts to give them more enjoyable activities.
You find it difficult to poop in your dog’s favorite holes. Use the same method, except instead of excrement, use a piece of chicken wire that has been cut to fit the hole’s surface area.
We advise creating a trough along the fence for fence diggers, then filling it with massive, upright stone pavers. Another option is to bury an 18-inch-tall chicken wire trip about a foot beneath the bottom of a wooden fence.
Most crucial, keep in mind that behavior doesn’t alter suddenly. It may take up to a few months of consistency before you notice a noticeable difference in your dog’s digging, so you’ll need to be consistent in your efforts to lessen it using a combination of teaching and management. Avoid digging yourself a deeper hole by giving up too soon!
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One of the first things you’ll do to help your dog adjust to his new home is potty training, and there are several different approaches you can take. To ensure success for both you and your dog, try these seven tips.
Decide where you want your new friend to “go” outside the house before you start potty training. Do you have a yard? Point them in the direction of a place that is easy to reach from the door. Dogs living in apartments should also be able to recognize open, accessible natural terrain that isn’t blocked by people or vehicles.
Once you’ve chosen the location you’ll take your dog during this potty training phase, be sure to take them there each time they need to go outdoors. Consistency is key while teaching a puppy to use the bathroom since dogs can scent their territory.
Although your new puppy may not be able to communicate with you in your native tongue, they will nonetheless make an effort to let you know when they need to go potty. Fortunately, there are several indicators you can watch for. As soon as you see them, take your dog outdoors to their designated potty training area:
When your dog exhibits the final symptom on the list, it might already be too late. So that they are aware that their customary space is up for grabs before they go in the wrong location, be prepared to open the door nonetheless.
Plan beforehand so you can swiftly take your dog outside if you see any of these symptoms. Keep a leash directly by the door so you can quickly lead the pet outside. Keep in mind to direct your dog to the same location each time they need to urinate. Once they are aware of the location of their designated bathroom, they will go there on their own.
Maintain a routine for all meal and snack times while potty training a dog. This is beneficial in two ways: The first benefit of planned meals is that they will teach your dog when to expect meals throughout the day. Second, if you feed your dog at regular intervals, you may follow up and take them to their designated potty training area in the knowledge that they’ll be prepared to relieve themselves shortly after they finish eating.
It’s likely that your dog will urinate frequently if they consume a lot of water. During the potty training stage, take your puppy outside soon after drinking so that they are in the appropriate location at the appropriate time.
Take your dog outside as soon as you wake up, after each feeding, and whenever you notice signs that they might need to relieve themselves. A lot of dogs have a bowel movement 30 minutes after eating. Until you have a better understanding of how frequently your dog does potty, take them outside every hour to prevent accidents. Based on their age, the following are some rough guidelines for how long puppies can “hold it”:
While small breeds with smaller bladders may require more frequent bathroom breaks, big breeds have a stronger ability to wait. Most dogs can wait seven hours or more by the time they are seven months old. They ought to know how to alert you when they need to go outside by that age. Always take your dog out before you go to bed to prevent 3 a.m. wake-up calls or morning surprises.
Everyone enjoys being told when they are doing a good job, and your dog will benefit greatly from this encouragement. It doesn’t matter if you give them treats or just pat them while saying “excellent work.” Just make sure they understand how much you value their attempts to conduct themselves properly. To teach the command “go to the bathroom,” think about identifying the deed. For instance, you might tell your dog to “take a break” before engaging in play.
Puppies prefer not to go potty close to where they eat or sleep. By crate training your dog, you can use it to reinforce housetraining. A puppy can easily relieve themselves in one part of a bathroom or laundry room while sleeping and playing in the remaining areas. If you need to use the phone or check your email while keeping an eye on your young dog, keep them in their kennel.
They will let you know if they need to use the restroom because they won’t want to mess up this place. Put them back in the kennel when you reach home if they play unproductively while outside. A crucial lesson that every puppy should learn is that if they mess up the kennel, they will have to temporarily live with it.
Accidents happen frequently during house training. When your dog needs to go outdoors to the designated pee place, quietly direct them there immediately away. Punishing a puppy could exacerbate the problem and lead to more accidents at home.
Clear the space right away. Ammonia should be avoided since it smells a lot like pee. While disinfecting, bleach cannot get rid of odors. Your dog will probably go potty there again if they smell feces in your house. Use an enzymatic cleanser or odor neutralizer made especially for pet excrement to clean the stained area. While it dries, keep your dog away from the area.
When encountering new people or animals, puppies may squat out of excitement or respect. Before meet-and-greets, give them bathroom breaks to prevent a mess. Take frequent bathroom breaks while traveling as well. If you want to board your dog while you are away, make sure to provide the facility detailed instructions to ensure consistency. Restart house training if you move to a new residence. Limit them to one area of the house, show them where the new toilet is, and give them praise when they behave well.
Many dogs don’t like going outside in the rain or don’t like going potty in the snow. A puppy may be terrified of the cold and rain for the first time, but even older dogs prefer to potty in comfort. To provide some weather protection, keep an umbrella close at hand.
Create a trail to your dog’s chosen bathroom location so they can go without exposing their tails to the bitterly cold ground. Increase their reward for using the restroom in poor weather by giving them twice as many treats. This will lessen the likelihood of unpleasant surprises beneath the piano bench. Even the best-trained dogs are more likely to have accidents in the house if they are overly anxious, stressed out, or afraid. Consult your veterinarian to rule out any health issues whenever your house-trained dog has a number of accidents.
Not all dogs pick things up at the same rate. By eight or ten weeks old, some puppies are experts at house training. Other puppies, such those of toy breeds, may take longer to grasp your expectations and may not show consistency until they are a few months old. In most circumstances, all dogs can learn to relieve themselves in a permitted area with your patience, encouragement, and persistence.
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