Hey guys, this is Nikki Lead Veterinary Technician with Posh Dog Knee Braces. Today, let’s talk about Cranial Cruciate Ligament Repair (CCL/ACL) tears in a dog, and what your options are. First of all, if your dog is limping on the hind leg, be sure to get a diagnosis from your veterinarian before making any decisions. Once that takes place, be firm with your Veterinarian if needed and ask for the exact diagnosis. If they feel that your dog has a Cranial Cruciate Ligament tear, or CCL tear, then you do have some decisions to make moving forward. Let’s go into the options, and the pros and cons, as well as long term expectations.
First off, depending on your veterinarian, they may refer you to a specialist to verify the diagnosis. This is completely up to you, but do know that if you go to a specialist, they are typically surgeons, and will not be happy without scheduling your dog for surgery. Please know that you can say no. I can’t stress enough how important it is for you to take a breath, and go over all options before signing that dotted line.
Choosing to do just conservative management, with no support or surgery. This seems to be gaining momentum and popularity, because obviously options can cost money. There are supportive things to do, such as keeping your dog in a kennel, leash walks outside, supplements, acupuncture, laser, prp, ect. While this option is better for the budget, it is not for the busy owner, or owners with small children and other pets. While it sounds great, reality is that there is a great chance your pup will continue to re-injure their knee. At some point, the door will open, and your dog will want to run.
Someone will forget, your dog looks like he is dong better at 3 months, and in he comes with the leg hiked all the way up to the groin. Sound familiar? This can be a tough cycle, and the bones in the knee are still able to move, causing pressure on the meniscus as well increasing your dog’s chance of arthritis down the road. So, can a knee heal with conservative management alone? Possibly, but there could be long term issues if you do not do passive range of motion, PT, and exercising along with CM alone.
This is by far my favorite option, from years of experience working with orthopedics. Using an orthotic Brace in conjunction with PROM and PT, as well as supplements and support. Now I am not talking about the cheap over the counter neoprene braces that have a spiderweb of straps connecting to the harness or back, those are no better than just letting the knee recover alone.
I am talking about a custom made premium orthotic brace, such as the Posh Dog Knee Brace. Posh Brace fully stabilizes the knee, allowing for range of motion and squatting, while also acting as a shock absorber for the meniscus. This is going to help give a smoother recovery, and allow that scar tissue to form without a lot of re-injuries. Thus, this is one of the safer options, and definitely still less than surgery.
Tightrope, lateral suture, or extracapsular repair. This is the cheapest of the surgical options, and should only be used on patients under 30-40lbs, as the suture has double the chance of failing in larger breed patients. This method usually is in the $2k-$3k ballpark range now, and is literally using fishing line/or suture to wrap around the knee joint to keep things in place. There are several ways this can and usually does fail. The crimps can come off, the suture can break, the suture can slip, ect.
These patients are immobile for months, and do get a lot of atrophy in the joint. This seems to be sore to recover from, and without a brace post op, your dog is going to need to be kenneled for weeks to months, to allow for scar tissue to properly form. This technique is similar to if you braced, however, without the full stabilization and support, and double the cost.
TPLO or TTA surgery. Both of these will be suggested by your vet or surgeon, usually first. They both entail cutting of the tibia bone, and re-alignment using a plate and screws. This is permanent, and there is no going back if something doesn’t go the way it was meant to. I always save this for my last option, as it is extremely invasive, expensive, and does not give a guarantee of working. Too many patients have had lifelong lameness due to choosing this option, and are not able to recover fully.
There are many weeks needed for kenneling, so the leg will atrophy. This also causes overcompensating on the good knee, which again increases the chances of another CCL tear in that leg. If surgery does go well, and you are able to do a full Physical Therapy Program post op with a professional, your dog may have a good outcome, but this is not without risk.
Please email me at po*********@***il.com if you would like to ask more questions about Cranial Cruciate Ligament Repair, CCL/ACL tears in dogs, and what the best options are for your pup. You can also contact via our forms or visit our Facebook page.
How to exercise your dog using our brace. Hey guys, this is Nikki Lead Veterinary Technician with Posh Dog Knee Braces,we are going to talk about excerises for your dog. Today let’s talk about how to keep your injured dog active using our brace and how to exercise with it. As you know, after surgery there is several weeks that you would need to have your dog kenneled with no exercising, leading to atrophy of the muscles and overcompensating on the other joints. With our brace, patients are able to fully weight bear and start walks right away, decreasing the chances for overcompensating.
Just like us, we want to start out slowly, so as not to over-use those muscles that have been unused since the onset of the injury. I suggest starting out with no more than 2 fifteen minute walks per day for excerising, and gradually increasing the amount of walking each week by about 10-15 minutes, as the patient starts getting stronger. Each patient is different in the amount you are able to start walks, and there may be some initial soreness for the first 2 weeks. This will go away as we start gaining muscle back.
Once our patients are able to walk comfortably for at least 20-30 minutes, after a few weeks, we can start encouraging things like swimming, hills, beach walking, and curbwork for exercises. Swimming can be at a physical therapy clinic, swimming pool, or a beach. Just no jumping into the water and climbing yet. Short hills and small hikes are great tools to keep those muscles working out.
We do offer a 12 week physical therapy program with each of our patients, which includes stretches and different exercises, such as figure 8’s, curb work, walks, hydrotherapy, ect. It is important to keep up with passive range of motion as you work into more activities, to prevent soreness and stiffness in the muscles and joints. As we are developing scar tissue, we want to keep up with gentle movements in the knee. This is important to help the development of healthy scar tissues.
After a few months, gentle trots and increased activities will be ok, as long as the patient is supervised. As we start to approach the 6-9 month mark, there should be more and more stability to the joint, even without the brace on. As the knee begins to stabilize, we can do more and more activities. We still need to refrain from excessive running, jumping, twisting, or playing fetch until things are fully recovered. This is usually after about 12 months. Always ask our technicians if you have any questions on activities planned.
For more information about how to exercise your dog you can contact through our contact form or visit or Facebook Page.
Signs your dog is in pain. The idea is to be aware of your dog’s typical movement and react swiftly to any abnormalities.
Mental alarms may be triggered by your energetic dog limping or moving in an unnatural manner. A sprain, perhaps? A strained muscle perhaps a strained ligament or tendon what should you do in response to this?
You should first determine whether the aberration is a short-term or long-term symptom.
An acute injury is one that manifests abruptly, typically 24 to 48 hours after the initial trauma. Sprains, falls, accidents, and other impacts can cause acute injuries, which are characterized by sharp, immediate pain, soreness, redness, swelling, warm-to-the-touch skin, and inflammation.
In contrast, chronic injuries take longer to manifest, get better and worse, and result in persistent soreness or dull pain. Overuse, arthritis, and acute injuries that were never appropriately treated are the typical causes of chronic injuries.
Sometimes a dog’s injury is visible because they are limping, howling in pain, or are unable to move. But paying attention to your dog’s movement and demeanor is time well spent because spotting mild indications can help prevent more serious issues. These are some examples of pain and stress signals:
The majority of canine injuries are chronic rather than acute. Chronic injuries are caused by overuse, excessive motion, and wear and tear. Every dog is susceptible to injuries, but some are more vulnerable than others, such as dogs that are overweight, weekend athletes, couch potatoes, elderly dogs, dogs with arthritis, dogs used in search and rescue, and canine athletics (such as dogs competing in fly ball, agility, freestyle, disc dog, hunting, field work, dock diving, obedience, weight pulling, dog sledding, and other active sports).
Rest is the number one suggestion for canine wounds. In particular, if the damage involves ligaments or tendons, which lack a blood supply that provides healing nutrients to the injury site, both visible injuries and subtle micro tears require time to heal. As soon as even little symptoms appear, it’s crucial to cease trekking, running, playing, or competing.
Check your dog’s nails, paw pads, and fur if he becomes abruptly lame, bleeds, or compulsively licks a paw, advises Dr. Davis. It’s common to see grass awns embedded in the skin between the toes. The pads are frequently affected by cuts, stingers, or foreign objects and a ripped nail can be painful.
If the injury is serious, take your dog right away to the vet; however, if it’s only minor or a visit to the clinic isn’t feasible, take your dog home and confine him to a quiet place. Write down any changes you observe, beginning with the day and hour you first noticed the issue and a description of what your dog was doing at the time. Your veterinarian or other therapist will be able to recognize and treat the injury with the aid of an accurate history of symptoms and treatments.
Range-of-motion exercises, such coaxing your dog with a food or toy into a turn to the right or left or raising and lowering his head, can help you record symptoms. Additionally, daily massage and tender touch reveal hints. When you pet or press your dog’s shoulder or hindquarters, does she turn away? Is there somewhere on your body that seems especially heated, hard, stiff, sensitive, or swollen? One of the quickest methods to find inflammation, muscle strains, and other discomforts is through touch.
Rest, ice, and massage are effective treatments for many minor and severe muscle, tendon, and ligament injuries. “Going outside on a leash to relieve itself counts as resting your pet; walks, treks, running, jumping, climbing stairs, or playing with other animals do not. Visit your veterinarian for a precise diagnosis if, after a few days, your pet has not improved, does not get better, or continues to display the same symptoms.
For severe injuries, cold is advised since it lessens discomfort and swelling. Dogs who are hurt instinctively look for places to stand or lie down, such as puddles, ponds, streams, and snow banks.
It is untrue for a bag of frozen peas to work as an efficient ice pack. The peas don’t remain cold for long enough to be useful. Pet supply shops have cold therapy items for animals, while businesses that sell medical supplies also sell cold packs for sports injuries. The finest cold packs have a gel inside that doesn’t harden when frozen, allowing you to shape them to a dog’s body.
Make your own cold packs by combining two cups of water, one and a half cups of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, and two tablespoons of salt in a self-sealing plastic bag. Double-bag the bag to ensure a tight closure.
Any open ice pack should be covered with a towel before application, removed after 10 to 15 minutes, and left off for at least two hours before reapplying because cold limits circulation and ice left on for too long might result in difficulties. Never use cold treatments right before working out, practicing, or competing.
Put two cups of uncooked rice in a sock, tie the top, and microwave for one minute to create your own warm pack. It will continue to be warm for 20 minutes. For additional relaxation, add a sprig of lavender or a drop of essential oil. The sock can be utilized repeatedly. If you don’t have a microwave, put the raw rice in a cookie sheet and preheat the oven to 150°F for 5 to 7 minutes.
Then, pour the warm rice into a sock or pouch, make sure it’s a safe temperature before applying, and check to make sure it’s still warm enough. As an alternative, soak a towel in warm water, wring it out thoroughly, and apply to the affected region. As required, reheat.
Whenever utilizing a warm pack, never leave a dog alone. To ensure the optimum temperature, always place a towel between the pack and your skin.
The fundamentals of massage are simple to master, and the majority of dogs like to be touched, stretched, and caressed. Restoring range of motion, calming the patient, and repairing injured tissue are all benefits of massage therapy. Hire a professional dog massage therapist, or study the foundations in books or on videos.
Chiropractic adjustments restore proper joint and vertebral alignment to alleviate pain, lessen muscular spasms, enhance coordination, and improve general health.
Musculoskeletal issues like arthritis, disc diseases, stiffness, and lameness can be improved or treated by acupuncture. It’s near relative, acupressure, involves pressing on acupressure points without using needles. Gent finger pressure or small, counterclockwise or clockwise-moving circles can be used to accomplish this.
Veterinarians and canine rehabilitation therapists provide a range of treatments for wounds, including hydrotherapy, shock wave therapy, therapeutic exercise, therapeutic ultrasound, therapeutic laser, PEMF therapy, cryo therapy, orthotics and braces, electrical stimulation, herbal remedies, and energy healing modalities like Reiki.
Without first visiting your veterinarian, avoid giving your dog any over-the-counter medications. Numerous human drugs “may not be taken by your pet” or “may produce undesirable reactions with your dog’s other meds.”
Even if your dog appears to be in good health and reacts well to pain medication, follow your vet’s advice to rest and only engage in light exercise while the injury heals.
Helping your dog avoid damage by taking precautions takes time and effort, but it’s time well spent.
Preventing obesity is a crucial objective. Carrying too much weight puts too much strain on the muscles, tendons, and ligaments. “Obesity is also an inflammatory condition. Degenerative joint disease and a variety of other problems throughout the body can be brought on by chronic inflammation. Reduce the amount of treats your overweight dog receives during training and forbid family members from giving her more. It takes a village to lose weight successfully in dogs.
Similar to humans, pets benefit from having a strong core to lessen stress on the spine and limbs. Regular conditioning should be a lifelong objective for your dog. Your dog need not be an athlete to train like one. There are several online athletic and conditioning communities, and your neighborhood kennel club might know of them.
Avoiding repeatedly doing the same movements is another protective measure. Tennis ball throwing may be your dog’s favorite exercise, but repetitive ball throwing can lead to injuries, so mix it up with other hobbies.
Keep toenails short because overgrown toenails alter the biomechanics of the toes, which affects the alignment and mobility of the legs and spine.
Be practical while planning your dog’s schedule. Sprains and strains are brought on by abruptly changing from couch potato to canine athlete. For ambitious games of fetch, trail runs, and other “too much fun” occasions, inactive dogs require time and progressively increasing activity. And if your dog is hurt, have patience. Keep in mind that one of your dogs strongest heals is time.
If your dog is in need of a knee brace or elbow brace due to injury you can order your brace today via our shopping page, if you have any further questions about what you should do you can contact us via our contact form, or visit our Facebook page or Group page for more information.
The majority of dog owners are aware that socializing a dog is best done when the dog is still a puppy. Between the ages of three and twelve weeks, a dog is most sensitive and receptive, thus the earlier you can socialize your dog, the better. After twelve weeks, a puppy may be quite resistant to anything new or unfamiliar.
Unfortunately, socializing a dog well during this window isn’t always possible. Perhaps as a young puppy, your dog suffered from a serious illness, and your veterinarian advised keeping them inside and away from other dogs. Or maybe you found them later in life and they simply never had a good chance to meet people.
Whatever the reason, your dog doesn’t have to live a life without companions or the opportunity to freely play with others because they weren’t socialized as a puppy. Here is some advice on how to socialize your dog:
Dog walks are fantastic ways for your dog to observe and maybe interact with other dogs and humans while also practicing polite conduct in public.
Why? Well, for one thing, because going for a stroll will always put you in more social circumstances than staying at home. However, walks are also great for socializing dogs because they will be calmer and more obedient because they will have less pent-up energy as a result of the exercise.
Remember not to yell at your dog or pull back on the leash if they bark or otherwise act out because this will just make them more excited, make the experience unpleasant, and teach them to associate that enthusiasm with other dogs.
Instead, keep your energy calm and assertive while distracting them with a reprimand, such as a sound you’ve trained them to respond to, a fast tug of the leash in a sideways direction, or a touch. You can always peacefully leave if all else fails.
If you are aware that your dog barks or growls at other dogs, wearing a muzzle can make things easier.
Of course, this eliminates the possibility of biting or attacking, but it may also reduce tension between the dogs, allowing for a more enjoyable meeting encounter.
Don’t rush things, but if you can get your dog involved in one new activity per week, it will help them socialize and stay calm and well-behaved. This can be accomplished by using a leash and muzzle, as well as by initially training your dog to be an observer.
For instance, you may gradually introduce your unsocialized dog to dog parks by strolling them around the perimeter of the fence and letting them observe the dogs having fun instead of just bringing them in and hoping for the best.
Socialize your dog doesn’t have to be something that you struggle through on your own, you can always reach out to a dog trainer for additional help.
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You must socialize your dog with people if you want him to be hospitable to both friends and family. Here are some pointers for socializing your dog with others.
Congratulations! You’ve just added a new dog or puppy to your home, and both he and you are adjusting to life together rapidly. It’s possible that you didn’t consider how much or even how to socialize your new dog or puppy when you were adopting them. You must introduce your dog to new people if you want him to be hospitable to both friends and relatives.
A major deal—for everyone—is introducing your significant other to the family. It’s quite different when you socialize your dog to your significant other. Regardless of how hostile your family may be against a new spouse, at least they won’t bite, right?
It’s been “the two of you” when you share your life with your dog prior to welcoming a new person. Your dog will be used to being the “top dog,” so when you bring home a significant other, he can feel displaced and not be happy about it.
You can do the following things to make the introductions go more smoothly:
There’s a good possibility you won’t have time to set up these “neutral ground” conversations if you’re throwing a party or hosting houseguests. Your visitors should be aware that they are entering your dog’s domain and that it can take the dog some time to get used to them. These folks are strangers to your dog, so you should introduce them to him the same way you would any stranger. These first socialize interaction must be watched over and conducted as calmly as possible.
You can introduce your dog to home guests in the following ways:
You must maintain command of the circumstance. Keep your dog on a leash if you know he will become aggressive against outsiders who invade his domain or if you are unsure of his reaction. Allow visitors to enter, and once they are inside, let your dog start the introduction.
Allow your dog to greet your guests while keeping him on a short leash. Allow your guests to give him a tiny present if you are confident that he will accept it well. This serves to further solidify the association between stranger and treatment. Give your dog a treat when he behaves well and is calm.
Use the commands “sit,” “down,” or “stay” if your dog has been taught them when guests arrive at your home.
You should greet visitors first so that your dog can observe your interactions. Your dog will detect the pleasant interaction, will notice that you’re relaxed, and that might encourage him to relax, whether you shake their hands or embrace them.
Inform your visitors if your dog jumps. Inform your visitors that if your dog jumps on them, they should turn their backs to the dog and place their arms across their chests. Ask them to refrain from addressing your dog by name or even from saying “down.” The fact that they are turning away will deter the dog from jumping because he is not being petted and is being ignored.
You could choose to let your dog off his leash once the visitors have entered your home and he seems at ease with them being there. Keep an eye on his level of tension and provide your visitors with advice on how to speak with him.
Extreme caution must be used whenever children are present, whether you are bringing a new baby home, hosting visitors with children, or running into kids on the street.
Children squeal, run around, and sometimes yank the dog’s fur or unintentionally step on its paws or tail. A youngster running around may in some cases and with some breeds trigger the dog’s predatory instinct, which can have catastrophic results. Avoid interacting with dogs you don’t know too much. If you have children and are adopting a dog for your family, do your research to make sure the dog is “kid friendly.”
Here are some pointers to socialize your dog to kids in a secure way:
You, the pet parent, must pay attention to your dog and his body language if you want to foster positive connections between your dog or puppy and visitors to your home, people you meet on the street, or if you’re bringing home a new, little human. When he feels at ease, move cautiously. When your dog shows signs of anxiety, you should go more slowly or remove him from the environment and try again later.
Dogs strive to win over their owners. They might take some time to warm up to a stranger, but with time and encouragement, your dog and the people in your life will develop a close friendship that will last a lifetime.
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It’s time to focus once more on the chocolate in your home with Valentine’s Day quickly approaching. After all, it’s customary to receive chocolate during this time of year that you would not often have on hand, and this can easily turn into an alluring treat for your family’s pets.
It’s crucial to keep in mind, though, how poisonous chocolate may be for dogs. Although chocolate toxicity in dogs or cats may not always result in death, it can be extremely harmful and may also result in long-term health issues.
To learn more about what to watch out for this Valentine’s Day and whenever you have chocolate in your house, read the information below.
Chocolate is toxic to dogs for two reasons:
The first of these is that chocolate contains caffeine. While certain varieties of chocolate have more caffeine than others, all varieties of chocolate do. Caffeine can make your dog’s heart beat too quickly, which could have major negative health effects. The same logic applies to the argument against allowing dogs to consume coffee.
Theobromine is another component of chocolate that can be poisonous to dogs. This substance can act as a diuretic and behaves similarly to caffeine. Your dog may quickly get dehydrated as a result of this, which could cause other issues.
It’s crucial to keep in mind that a chocolate’s toxicity increases with how bitter it tastes. This indicates that white chocolate is less likely to be harmful than dark baking chocolate, which is particularly poisonous. Do not give your dog any chocolate, even if you believe it is not too bitter, as all varieties of chocolate can be toxic and hazardous to dogs and other pets.
Now that you are aware of the reasons why chocolate is harmful to dogs, it is critical to know how to spot the signs of chocolate poisoning in your pet.
Intoxication symptoms in dogs from chocolate include:
The two issues listed above are the first indications that dogs are poisonous to chocolate. In minor situations, dogs may merely vomit or have a few episodes of diarrhea before feeling better.
However, in extreme circumstances, these symptoms may worsen and eventually lead to the other conditions on the list below.
Dogs who have consumed too much theobromine or caffeine may exhibit increased thirst and urine. This is because theobromine and caffeine are both diuretics.
Particularly caffeine may make dogs act agitatedly. Even without the dog consuming much of it, darker chocolates with higher caffeine concentrations may cause this symptom.
A worrisome sign that might cause cardiac arrest is an increased heart rate, especially in older or sicker dogs. It may be advised to take your pet to the emergency vet for monitoring and/or treatment since it can be challenging to monitor your pet’s heart rate at home.
One of the worst signs of dog’s excessive chocolate poisoning is seizures. This may only happen if a dog consumes a significant amount of chocolate, but it occasionally indicates that the toxicity will become fatal without veterinary care.
If your dog exhibits this symptom after consuming chocolate, take him to the clinic right away.
Depending on the signs your dog exhibits after consuming chocolate, you may need to take different actions.
If you are aware that your pet has had chocolate, call the emergency veterinarian as soon as possible. Depending on the type of chocolate consumed and the size of your pet, clinical symptoms and issues can differ greatly. Your pet may occasionally be made to vomit the chocolate up by the vet in an effort to prevent or decrease the possibility of developing clinical symptoms.
Do not wait for symptoms to appear before contacting your veterinarian; once symptoms appear, treatment becomes much more challenging.
Please take your pet to the emergency vet if he exhibits any of the signs on this list and you are certain that he has consumed chocolate. Dehydration can occur quickly as a result of excessive thirst and urine, which can be very dangerous for dogs.
The more quickly you react to your dog’s alarming symptoms, the more probable it is that your dog will be able to fully recover from the situation.
There are numerous ways to protect your dog at home and avoid chocolate toxicity:
If you keep chocolate of any kind in your home, you should always be aware of how you’re storing it and how probable it is that you’re pet will try to get to it. Whether you have brownies, cookies, milk chocolate bars, or cocoa powder in your kitchen or pantry, they should always be kept in a secure location that your pet can’t access.
Avoid leaving chocolate goodies or wrappers lying around by keeping cabinets and pantry doors closed whenever you can.
Additionally, it’s crucial to teach your pet the “leave it” command to stop them from grabbing objects—either food or inedible—that they shouldn’t. Early training of your dog in good manners and obedience can prevent a lot of hassle later on for both you and them.
Children are renowned for giving pets gifts. Get kids in the habit of putting things away in their right places and teach them not to offer your dog any chocolate or other goodies.
Make sure kids develop the habit of immediately closing the fridge, cupboards, and drawers after usage.
Cocoa shell mulch is a rare but potentially harmful source of chocolate poisoning in dogs. The mulch, which is frequently used as a top covering for plants, can entice dogs with its sweet perfume, causing them to consume some of the mulch, which can lead to disease.
Cocoa shell mulch should never be used for landscaping.
With the use of this knowledge, you ought to be able to protect your dogs at Valentine’s Day and any other time of the year when there is chocolate present. Keep any domestic pets under close observation and store chocolate securely out of their reach. You can avoid this potentially deadly issue altogether if you take this action. Call an emergency veterinarian straight once if you know or suspect that your dog has consumed chocolate.
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Give your dog a designated digging area and restrict him unsupervised access to the areas where you don’t want holes to be dug if you want to completely stop undesired digging.
Digging is among many dogs’ favorite pastimes when it comes to their natural behavior. Digging is frequently discouraged for dogs who live with people, which is unfortunate.
There are many reasons why dogs dig holes in the ground:
Avoiding digging entirely is the best solution. Until you’re sure your doggy can amuse himself without digging, don’t leave him outside unattended. Look around your yard to find the best sites for digging, such as gopher mounds, regions with loose ground, or damp areas that are conducive to digging. Of course, some dogs may dig wherever they feel like it, but removing the temptation makes it simpler to focus your dog’s attention on better habits.
If you must leave your digging doggy alone in the yard, use management to help stop practice sessions for the undesirable activity. If your dog likes to dig, you might want to consider a secure enclosure like a dog run or utilize a reliable exercise pen that is set up to prevent access to certain places. Just while she is learning, though; it won’t last forever!
It’s a good idea to assess your dog’s overall enrichment honestly. Does your dog go for daily walks outside of the house and/or yard? Is the path always the same? Do you vary your routine by doing some exercise while you walk? Does your dog ever accompany you on errands to new (dog-friendly) locations if he is comfortable in public? Dogs frequently dig when they’re bored. Ask him honestly what else he has planned for the week to see if you can shake things up a bit.
If your dog has a history of digging up stuff, try some of the following:
Create a digging pit by filling a plastic wading pool or a child’s sandbox with sand or dirt. Compared to dirt, sand leaves less of a mess. bury the toys your dog enjoys most. Show him the reward pit and assist him in finding it with excitement. Don’t forget to replace the toys buried within the pit and continue assisting him in finding the treasures. The “hides” may get smaller and more difficult to spot as he improves.
Digging holes at random? Try replacing the majority of the dirt in the hole, adding some of your dog’s waste on top, then covering it with the remaining earth. Digging for fun and discovering waste can be very unpleasant for some dogs. As your dog tries out new digging techniques, you’ll probably need to repeat this process a few times, but for many dogs, the regular experience of uncovering waste will cause them to reevaluate their backyard behavior, especially when combined with your efforts to give them more enjoyable activities.
You find it difficult to poop in your dog’s favorite holes. Use the same method, except instead of excrement, use a piece of chicken wire that has been cut to fit the hole’s surface area.
We advise creating a trough along the fence for fence diggers, then filling it with massive, upright stone pavers. Another option is to bury an 18-inch-tall chicken wire trip about a foot beneath the bottom of a wooden fence.
Most crucial, keep in mind that behavior doesn’t alter suddenly. It may take up to a few months of consistency before you notice a noticeable difference in your dog’s digging, so you’ll need to be consistent in your efforts to lessen it using a combination of teaching and management. Avoid digging yourself a deeper hole by giving up too soon!
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One of the first things you’ll do to help your dog adjust to his new home is potty training, and there are several different approaches you can take. To ensure success for both you and your dog, try these seven tips.
Decide where you want your new friend to “go” outside the house before you start potty training. Do you have a yard? Point them in the direction of a place that is easy to reach from the door. Dogs living in apartments should also be able to recognize open, accessible natural terrain that isn’t blocked by people or vehicles.
Once you’ve chosen the location you’ll take your dog during this potty training phase, be sure to take them there each time they need to go outdoors. Consistency is key while teaching a puppy to use the bathroom since dogs can scent their territory.
Although your new puppy may not be able to communicate with you in your native tongue, they will nonetheless make an effort to let you know when they need to go potty. Fortunately, there are several indicators you can watch for. As soon as you see them, take your dog outdoors to their designated potty training area:
When your dog exhibits the final symptom on the list, it might already be too late. So that they are aware that their customary space is up for grabs before they go in the wrong location, be prepared to open the door nonetheless.
Plan beforehand so you can swiftly take your dog outside if you see any of these symptoms. Keep a leash directly by the door so you can quickly lead the pet outside. Keep in mind to direct your dog to the same location each time they need to urinate. Once they are aware of the location of their designated bathroom, they will go there on their own.
Maintain a routine for all meal and snack times while potty training a dog. This is beneficial in two ways: The first benefit of planned meals is that they will teach your dog when to expect meals throughout the day. Second, if you feed your dog at regular intervals, you may follow up and take them to their designated potty training area in the knowledge that they’ll be prepared to relieve themselves shortly after they finish eating.
It’s likely that your dog will urinate frequently if they consume a lot of water. During the potty training stage, take your puppy outside soon after drinking so that they are in the appropriate location at the appropriate time.
Take your dog outside as soon as you wake up, after each feeding, and whenever you notice signs that they might need to relieve themselves. A lot of dogs have a bowel movement 30 minutes after eating. Until you have a better understanding of how frequently your dog does potty, take them outside every hour to prevent accidents. Based on their age, the following are some rough guidelines for how long puppies can “hold it”:
While small breeds with smaller bladders may require more frequent bathroom breaks, big breeds have a stronger ability to wait. Most dogs can wait seven hours or more by the time they are seven months old. They ought to know how to alert you when they need to go outside by that age. Always take your dog out before you go to bed to prevent 3 a.m. wake-up calls or morning surprises.
Everyone enjoys being told when they are doing a good job, and your dog will benefit greatly from this encouragement. It doesn’t matter if you give them treats or just pat them while saying “excellent work.” Just make sure they understand how much you value their attempts to conduct themselves properly. To teach the command “go to the bathroom,” think about identifying the deed. For instance, you might tell your dog to “take a break” before engaging in play.
Puppies prefer not to go potty close to where they eat or sleep. By crate training your dog, you can use it to reinforce housetraining. A puppy can easily relieve themselves in one part of a bathroom or laundry room while sleeping and playing in the remaining areas. If you need to use the phone or check your email while keeping an eye on your young dog, keep them in their kennel.
They will let you know if they need to use the restroom because they won’t want to mess up this place. Put them back in the kennel when you reach home if they play unproductively while outside. A crucial lesson that every puppy should learn is that if they mess up the kennel, they will have to temporarily live with it.
Accidents happen frequently during house training. When your dog needs to go outdoors to the designated pee place, quietly direct them there immediately away. Punishing a puppy could exacerbate the problem and lead to more accidents at home.
Clear the space right away. Ammonia should be avoided since it smells a lot like pee. While disinfecting, bleach cannot get rid of odors. Your dog will probably go potty there again if they smell feces in your house. Use an enzymatic cleanser or odor neutralizer made especially for pet excrement to clean the stained area. While it dries, keep your dog away from the area.
When encountering new people or animals, puppies may squat out of excitement or respect. Before meet-and-greets, give them bathroom breaks to prevent a mess. Take frequent bathroom breaks while traveling as well. If you want to board your dog while you are away, make sure to provide the facility detailed instructions to ensure consistency. Restart house training if you move to a new residence. Limit them to one area of the house, show them where the new toilet is, and give them praise when they behave well.
Many dogs don’t like going outside in the rain or don’t like going potty in the snow. A puppy may be terrified of the cold and rain for the first time, but even older dogs prefer to potty in comfort. To provide some weather protection, keep an umbrella close at hand.
Create a trail to your dog’s chosen bathroom location so they can go without exposing their tails to the bitterly cold ground. Increase their reward for using the restroom in poor weather by giving them twice as many treats. This will lessen the likelihood of unpleasant surprises beneath the piano bench. Even the best-trained dogs are more likely to have accidents in the house if they are overly anxious, stressed out, or afraid. Consult your veterinarian to rule out any health issues whenever your house-trained dog has a number of accidents.
Not all dogs pick things up at the same rate. By eight or ten weeks old, some puppies are experts at house training. Other puppies, such those of toy breeds, may take longer to grasp your expectations and may not show consistency until they are a few months old. In most circumstances, all dogs can learn to relieve themselves in a permitted area with your patience, encouragement, and persistence.
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After they poop, dogs will occasionally use their hind feet to scratch or kick the ground. Give them freedom to; we don’t know why they do it, but it seems they like it.
It’s a routine ritual. A dog urinates or defecates, then scuffs dirt, grass, or gravel into the air in what appears to be an accomplishment or at the very least, a mark of celebration. What motivates canines to behave in this way?
According to certain research, males engage in this behavior substantially more frequently than females when other dogs are present.
Dogs may do this for a variety of reasons, depending on the people present and what they are attempting to convey through visual, olfactory, and aural cues. He claims that dogs who exhibit this behavior appreciate it and that it appears to have significance for them.
If your dog’s grass kicking harms your yard or causes other issues, find entertaining diversionary strategies and encourage other habits until this one is under control. If not, wait until your dog has finished speaking before moving on with your walk. This will allow them to finish their message.
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How frequently to feed your dog is one of the most contentious topics in the world of dog owners. Do you fed them breakfast in the morning, then lunch and dinner, or does that run the risk of overfeeding them? Do you fed them all at once or do you wait until the end of the day? No matter your dog’s age, take a look at the finest food options to keep them nourished and healthy.
Ideally, you ought to give your dog food twice daily. Most crucial, these two meals need to be served every day at the same time. They will eventually develop a regular schedule for going to the restroom each day. You can also keep an eye out for any health problems. Dogs who are feeling under the weather might not eat as much. As a result, if your dog follows a regular eating schedule, any problems will be obvious.
Ensuring they don’t receive more food than what your veterinarian advises is crucial. For optimal feeding, it’s essential to speak with your veterinarian because some food labels might be deceptive. Remember that less priced dog feeds may not provide your dog with the same nutrients as products that adhere to the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) nutritional requirements since they contain fillers like maize and brewers rice.
The feeding method that most dog experts advise against is letting your dog graze on a full bowl of dog food all day. This choice could be the simplest for dog owners with a hectic schedule, but your dog won’t gain anything from it.
When dogs have constant access to food, there is a greater likelihood that they may overeat, which can cause complications as they age like excessive weight gain or health problems like heart disease or diabetes.
Young puppies actually require a number of smaller, distinct meals in order to develop into healthy, powerful animals. As early as three to four weeks old, puppies are ready to begin eating solid foods. At that young age, it can be necessary to feed them up to five times per day. When using dog foods designed specifically for puppies, just keep the portions modest. The right amount of food for your puppy’s age and breed should be determined by your veterinarian.
When your dog reaches the age of six weeks, you can cut back on the number of meals to three or four per day. No matter what breed your dog is, three meals a day should be sufficient for them after eight weeks. Keep in mind that pups that are teething can start eating less for a while. Puppies between the ages of three and six months typically experience this.
Due to inactivity or health problems, dogs’ appetites may decline as they get older. They might not have the same amount of energy to run around as they did when they were younger, thus they won’t require as much food. You might wish to switch them to a senior dog chow that has fewer calories at this stage of their life, or just start feeding them less frequently.
Some older dogs are more vulnerable to a variety of ailments. In order to keep them healthy as they age, they will need to keep an eye on their eating patterns and maintain a healthy weight.
Please keep in mind that dogs have sensitive stomachs when feeding your pet. Frequently changing pet food brands could make them uncomfortable. If you decide to switch, make sure to do so gradually over a few weeks so they have time to adjust to the new flavor and recipe.
Overall, your dog is the finest resource for determining its needs. You can be overfeeding them if they appear to be in wonderful health but aren’t finishing all of their food. They may be deficient in important nutrients if they are constantly hungry.
It’s critical to understand what your dog eats. The quantity, rate, and manner in which they digest their meal will give you a decent idea of their health, level of activity, and general contentment.
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Here is the best advice and tips on how to bathe a dog, from selecting the right shampoo to washing a dog’s head.
A little shampoo, some water…. How challenging can bathing a dog be? Occasionally, harder than you’d expect. Regular dog baths are an essential element of pet care, regardless of whether your dog enjoys them or flees when you say “B-A-T-H.”
You usually don’t need to bathe your dog more frequently than once a month, unless your pet had spent the afternoon playing about in mud puddles. Breed-specific factors come into play here; for example, longer-coated dogs may need more regular bathing or even visits to a groomer. Consult a groomer or your veterinarian if you’re unsure how frequently to soap up your dog. (IMPORTANT TIP) Giving a bath once a month is crucial, though.
Dogs develop a completely new layer of skin cells every 30 days or so. “The aged cells therefore slough off. Dander and other similar products are produced in this way. Therefore, regular grooming or bathing helps to reduce that dander.
Your initial choice will probably be where you will bathe your dog. Your decision will probably be influenced by the size of your dog. A little dog might fit in the kitchen sink for a bath, but a large dog will need more room. Some pet owners like dog-specific bathtubs, whether they are standalone units, built-in units, or located in a DIY dog bath facility. Fur and filth can be prevented from blocking your family bathtub by using a designated dog bath space. But it’s also acceptable if you want to bathe your dog in the household bathtub. Simply pick a location where you can bring your dog in and out of the cleaning area without risk.
Then, make sure you have all your supplies and tools close at hand before turning on the faucet. You don’t want to have to go around your house chasing a wet dog in search of conditioner. Of course, you’ll need towels, shampoo, and conditioner on your supplies list. Just in case, you might also want an eye wash and a non-slip bath mat.
You need to start with the correct supplies if you want to give your dog a thorough bath. Make careful to use shampoo designed exclusively for pets. Dogs’ skin has a different pH than people’s. Therefore, they are more alkaline. It can irritate someone’s skin if they use shampoo designed for people.
Puppy-specific shampoo may be a good idea when bathing a puppy. Puppy shampoo’s pH is similar to that of a dog’s eyes, so if any goes in there, it won’t bother the eyes as much.
Ask a groomer what products they use if you’re unclear of the ones to choose for your particular dog. Use a gentle shampoo, a shampoo made to treat the ailment your dog is having, such as itchy skin, may be the best option.
The crucial next step is applying a conditioner to your dog’s coat after shampooing. When doing your own grooming at home, you should always follow up with a conditioner because using shampoo strips the skin and hair of many of their natural oils. Therefore, your conditioner both hydrates the epidermis and seals up every cell on the exterior of the hair shaft itself. “Basically, using the conditioner is rehydrating.”
The real fun starts once you have selected the ideal location and ready-to-use supplies. Here is our bathing process:
One of the trickiest steps in giving your dog a bath is washing his head. Avoid getting water or soap in your dog’s eyes, nose, or other delicate body parts. Delaying this step until after the bath and suggests wiping your pet’s face with a washcloth.
Your dog’s head and face should be gently washed with the washcloth dipped in soapy water. After that, rinse with clear water using a fresh washcloth. Make sure all of the soap is removed from those locations.
You should try to avoid the eye area as much as possible when applying shampoo, even if the shampoo is intended to be gentler on puppies’ eyes. Have an eye wash on hand to use if shampoo does get in your dog’s eyes. Moistening eye goobers on your dog before gently removing them with a toothbrush.
Even though some dog breeds adore the water (golden retrievers come to mind), many dogs tremble at the mere sound of the bath tap going on. Give your dog lots of praise while bathing him to help combat this. Treats are preferable to praise. When your dog next sees you gathering the dog shampoo, make sure he associates it with good things.
Having a companion hold the dog while you give him a wash is also beneficial. Additionally, if at all feasible, begin bathing your dog as a puppy to get him accustomed to the experience.
First, try your best to towel-dry your dog. Then, put a human hairdryer to a medium or cool setting or use a hairdryer designed specifically for dogs. When your dog is drying off, start brushing him. As long as your dog doesn’t shiver excessively or get the chills, you might also let him air dry.
“Every 10 or 15 minutes run a brush through them as they’re drying and that’ll help avoid mats or help separate mats if they have them,” if you’re air-drying your dog.
Your dog will look and smell better after a bath. Additionally, you will feel good knowing that you did something good for your dog’s wellbeing and appearance.
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Dog Toys are not a luxury but rather an absolute necessity for dogs and other pets.
The well-being of your dog depends on its toys. When you must leave your dog at home, toys keep them entertained and reassure them when they’re anxious. Even the development of some negative behaviors in your dog can be delayed with the use of toys.
Dogs are frequently more than happy to play with whatever object they can get their paws on. To avoid any “unscheduled” activities, you will therefore need to monitor your dog’s playtime carefully.
The size, activity level, and preferences of your dog all play a part in determining whether a dog toy is safe or dangerous. The environment in which your dog spends their time is another factor to take into account. The safety of any particular toy cannot be guaranteed, however we can provide the following recommendations.
Dogs typically find the most dangerous things to be the things that they find most appealing. Remove all strings, ribbons, rubber bands, children’s toys, pantyhose, and other potentially ingestible materials from your home to dog-proof it.
Make sure the dog toys you buy for your dog are the right size. Smaller toys run the risk of being ingested or getting stuck in your dog’s throat.
If you don’t watch your dog playing with squeaky toys, they can eat the squeaking object since they feel the need to find and destroy it.
Toys that aren’t “dog-proof” should be avoided or modified by taking out any ribbons, strings, eyeballs, or other pieces that could be chewed off and consumed. Dog Toys that are tearing or starting to shatter into pieces should be thrown away. Check the labels on plush animals to make sure they are suitable for children under three and don’t have any poisonous fillings. Nutshells and polystyrene beads are examples of problematic fillings, but even “safe” fillings aren’t actually digestible. Though certain soft dog toys are more durable than others, keep in mind that they are not invincible. Soft toys ought to be washable in the machine.
If you’re considering giving your dog a rawhide chew toy, make sure to ask your vet which ones are secure and suitable for your dog. Give these toys to your dog only when you can keep an eye on them as they may present choking concerns.
Rawhide is a byproduct of the brutal international fur trade in large quantities. Consider toys made of extremely firm rubber, which are safer and last longer, as a kinder substitute.
Industry insiders categorize dog toys into many categories since they are now so common and diversified. Here are five categories for toys:
Tennis balls are excellent fetching toys for dogs, but they don’t hold up well to chewing. Tennis balls that have been eaten through should be thrown away since they could choke your pet.
An old t-shirt, pillowcase, towel, or other piece of filthy laundry, especially one that smells like you, can be quite comforting to a dog. Be aware that diligent fluffing, transporting, and nosing may result in the item being.
Puppies develop the impulse to chew on everything between the ages of 12 weeks and 6 months as their baby teeth fall out and their adult teeth begin to erupt through their gums. Providing children with teething toys will increase their comfort and protect your hands, shoes, and furniture. Rubber toys and sturdy nylon bones can withstand weeks of chewing without shattering into fragments that could be ingested. You may purchase specialist puppy teething toys that can be frozen and have calming textures printed on them.
Only have a few toys available at once to ensure weekly toy rotation for your dog. Maintain a range of accessible kinds. You might want to keep a favorite toy for your dog out at all times if it is soft.
Give your dog toys that may be used in a variety of ways, including carrying, rolling, shaking, and comforting.
Toys that are “found” are frequently considerably more appealing than toys that are clearly introduced. Your dog will burn off excess energy by playing the game of “find the toy” or “find the treat” without the need for much space.
Your dog should have a lot of engaging toys. Because dogs want active “people time,” interactive play is crucial for strengthening the link between you and your pet. Toys that promote the attachment between a person and their pet include balls, flying discs, and other items.
Your dog can release pent-up mental and physical energy from boredom by concentrating on a particular task, such as continuously returning a ball, or Frisbee or playing “hide-and-seek” with treats or toys, in a constrained period of time and area. Interactive play provides a chance for socialization and teaches young, hyperactive, untrained dogs about proper and improper behavior, such as jumping up or being mouthy.
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Keep your pet off of Santa’s bad list right up until his arrival! It’s the holiday season!
It’s likely that your furry family member will be present to take part in the celebrations when everyone is gathered around the tree to open gifts and spread joy and laughter. However, your pet might find the ideal moment to cause some trouble while everyone is preoccupied with presenting gifts and playing with new toys.
Your tree is probably going to be the focal point of the celebrations this year, but it may also be a tremendous temptation for your dog! Make careful to hang the shiny tinsel, bright lights, and ornaments in the shape of tennis balls out of reach of your animal pets. Some mischievous dogs could still attempt to jump on the tree, so leaving something noisy, like crumpled aluminum foil or a bottle filled with tiny objects, can alert the dancer of imminent danger. Additionally, if you have a live tree, make sure to pick up all of the fallen needles since if consumed, they can cause serious stomach discomfort in your pet.
Your pet’s health and safety are at risk from holiday plants other than trees. Keep in mind that plants like holly, mistletoe, and poinsettias are harmful to dogs, so keep them out of reach!
It could be a good idea to inspect all electrical decorations, both indoors and outdoors. To prevent your furry pals from getting caught and creating a mess, tape the wires to the wall!
When it’s time to unwrap presents, be sure to have a garbage bag on hand to dispose of wrapping paper, twine, and tape as soon as they’re no longer required.
It might be wise to confine your pet to a comfortable area with access to water if you’re expecting a large number of guests, at least until the ruckus dies down. Before your guests arrive, you might want to review your dog’s obedience commands; we don’t want Grandma to trip over a huge, puppy hug! Additionally, it’s crucial to let your visitors know they shouldn’t give your pets any table food. You wouldn’t want your dog to eat too much and have to spend the rest of the holidays taking care of their stomach ache, even if some foods aren’t particularly dangerous to them.
The team at Posh Dog Knee Brace hopes that these simple reminders allow your pet to have fun with the family this holiday season! If you would like any information on our brace you can reach out to us via our contact form or visit our Facebook page.
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We are used to reading that regular walking will keep your dog healthy. How frequently do you walk your dog though? How often should you do this? How much activity do dogs actually require? How can I make the most of a dog walk? Find all of those answers right here!
It’s generally advised to take your dog on a walk for at least 15 minutes three to four times every day. However, this may change depending on your dogs:
Smaller dogs might benefit from just one daily stroll, but high-energy dog types will need multiple walks. Is one of those breeds your dog? Are you an active person who wishes to spend more time exercising with your dog? Perhaps you are unsure of the precise amount of exercise your dog need. A trip to the vet is advised in that situation. They will be pleased to offer you practical hints and walking guidance tailored to the particular conditions involving your dog.
Every dog belongs to a distinct breed group, and every breed has unique exercise requirements and restrictions. Giving you a good idea of how much activity to aim for, it’s simple to stay on track after your daily goal has been established.
The amount of sleep your dog receives is as crucial to how much walking you should undertake. After all, a full day of action calls for a restful sleep. Learn your dog’s sleeping patterns, check to make sure they’re getting enough (quality) sleep, and determine if anything seems off. For instance, excessive sleeping could be a warning that you should consult your veterinarian.
If you’re a really active person, these high-energy breeds will fit your lifestyle:
Outdoor activities are the ideal method to develop a relationship with these animals. Your dog will make the trip more enjoyable whether you choose to stroll, hike, or run.
These dog breeds require more exercise than others:
If your dog falls into one of these categories, aim to push them beyond their physical limits while also testing their training and cognitive abilities. The dogs in these categories will find ordinary games dull, so feel free to get inventive!
Did you realize? These dogs need a minimum of 2.5 hours of intense activity per day.
This can readily be translated into at least four daily walks of 20–25 minutes each. Due to their high intelligence, dogs in this category should also be given mental challenges. A minimum of 30 minutes should be set up each day for intelligence game sessions with them. Make sure to outfit these puppies with an activity monitor so you can follow them on all of their outside escapades.
Terrier dogs come out as little, vivacious, strong-willed, and trainable. Although there are only a few dogs in this pack, they nevertheless require a lot of exercise.
Advice: Terriers require at least 1.5 hours of exercise each day.
A reasonable walking routine might involve three 20–25 minute walks each day. For this group, you might want to add some games that need cerebral exercise. It should be difficult enough for 20 minutes a day to keep them active.
Breeds belonging to this group, such as:
Definitely need a challenge in the activities. For them, a minimal amount of daily walking and exercise is one and a half hours. Since these dog breeds enjoy running as well, feel free to begin a running exercise with them as long as you take your time and account for your dog’s age.
It’s important to remember that dogs in this group should take at least three daily walks of at least 30 minutes each, in addition to engaging in cognitive activities.
Chihuahuas and other small dog breeds are typically what we refer to as companion animals today. Avoid subjecting these low-energy breeds to long periods of strenuous activity. Instead, allocate shorter amounts of time for enjoyable activities like games and regular strolls to keep the kids active.
Overly active dogs, such as those with short hair, can have detrimental effects. Since they have less fur, they are more prone to respiratory problems and easy overheating. Take these breeds on quick, uncomplicated strolls. Activity monitor your dog to keep tabs on your tiny dog’s daily exercise to make sure it doesn’t exceed recommended levels.
Watch out: These dog breeds only need two daily, brief walks.
There are several benefits for your dog in frequently walking with you. Some of these explanations have to do with your dog’s health, while others have to do with its training. While following you and moving at your pace while on a leash, your dog might learn discipline.
Are there any considerations you should make when walking your dog? Safety comes first as usual.
Only when you are confident your dog won’t run away and you are in a safe, unpopulated place should you try off-leash dog walks.
Don’t punish your dog if they do manage to escape. Your dog must not identify your return with any sense of wrongdoing or resentment. Keep your dog on a leash at all times if you find that they have a tendency to run away. Make sure to teach your dog the fundamental safety commands as another safety advice. They are not only simple to teach, but they can shield you and your animal companion from risky circumstances.
A dog parent’s life includes taking their dog for walks frequently. A short stroll helps your dog behave better in social situations and strengthens the connection you share with your dog. You may have fun while working to keep your dog healthy if you view dog walks as enjoyable times of the day.
Another way to lessen destructive chewing or scratching is to take your dog for a walk (should this be an issue your dog is facing).
However, the advantages extend beyond your dog! In fact, going outside to spend time with your dog can improve your general wellbeing and level of fitness. Daily walks can reduce your risk of developing diabetes, strengthen your bones, and lower your blood pressure. So, why are you still waiting? Get your dog outside and walking!
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Hey guys, this is Nikki, lead veterinary technician with Posh Dog Knee Braces. Today, lets discuss weight management in our spayed and neutered pups. It is well known that spaying and neutering, after a certain safe age, is recommended by almost every veterinarian. It is very important in the prevention of overpopulation, and other health concerns, however, it also predisposes our pups to obesity. Unfortunately, many vets are so quick to schedule your dog for surgery, and there is simply no information given to the owners as far as where to go now.
So, now we have this relatively healthy dog, young and probably more active, and we just took away the hormones that helped keep their weight in check. Post spay and neuter, their metabolic energy decreases significantly. This means that we need to also be cutting back the calories, by at least 25%. The other issue, especially with females, is that the hormone estrogen helps to keep their appetite at bay. Taking this hormone away can give your dog an increase in appetite, which is bad in a patient that needs to decrease the calories taken in per day.
So, now you go back in for your annual checkup, to find your baby has gained weight. The veterinarian possibly tells you that your dog needs to go on a weight loss diet, or be given less food per day. So, now you have a dog that just went through major hormonal changes, and has increased food cravings, yet you are feeding them barely any food.
Sound familiar? This equals out to an unhappy dog, and in return and unhappy owner. So, what is the solution, because it is also essential that we spay and neuter to be good pet parents, and do our part to prevent overpopulation.
This is where it is time to get proactive. Feel free to include your veterinarian in your plan, as you will need a way to weigh your dog every 2-4 weeks to check their weight. The good news is this is free😊 Now, it is time to implement the proper spay and neuter diet. For those that feed a raw diet already, you should not need to make any real changes.
The key is to increase protein and fiber, but keep in mind it needs to be healthy fiber. There are a few expensive brand foods marketed to spayed and neutered pets that the first ingredient is chicken by product. Double yuck! Just keep in mind that carbs will not help with weight loss. Foods with lots of rice for example are not meant for weight loss. It may be bland, but it will cause weight gain.
Try discussing with your veterinarian before you plan to spay or neuter, ask them to help you develop a proper diet to keep your dog healthy for years to come! This also will help prevent issues with joints potentially in the future.
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